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Greenlandic Men's Football Championship

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Greenlandic Football

July 2015. Ilulissat, Greenland
On holiday this year we were lucky enough to spend a few days in Greenland. Whilst there we stumbled upon a football tournament in the town of Ilulissat where we were staying, a couple of hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle. As an autonomous state within the Kingdom of Denmark, Greenland's football federation, founded in 1971, has not been allowed membership of FIFA. Apparently this is because they cannot sustain grass pitches in Greenland, but after the acceptance of Gibraltar to FIFA and the use of plastic pitches in the recent Women's World Cup, they apparently plan to re-apply. Football is the most popular sport in Greenland, played on gravel or sand pitches in the summer and indoors in the winter.

Greenland is a country with a land mass two thirds the size of India but a population the size of Inverness. 80% of the land is permanently covered in ice with the people living on the ice free coastal areas, particularly on the southwest. The capital, Nuuk, lies here with a population of 16,000. There are no roads between the towns in Greenland with travel really by sea or air. In winter the hardy can travel between towns by dog sled, the only realistic mode of transport in the north of Greenland.



We spent three days in Greeland's third largest town of Ilulissat, a town of 4000 people. The name of the town in the Kalaallissut language means "icebergs". This is because the town is at the mouth of the Ilullisat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here the inland Greenlandic glacier moves at 40-50 metres per day pushing icebergs out into Disko Bay all year round. They come down the deep icefjord, where the water is 1km deep then become slowed down in the shallower waters between Ilulissat and Disko Island. Outside of Antartica it is the world's most prolific producer of icebergs and it is thought that the iceberg which sank the Titanic in the north Atlantic started off from here.

An iceberg in Disko Bay, off of Ilulissat

The oldest house in town dates back to 1710. Also in town there is a museum dedicated to famous local boy, explorer and anthropologist Knut Rasmussen, in his former house. There is lovely art gallery too, currently run by a Danish man who told us he had lived in Scotland for 6 months as a teenager, working in a tourist information office in Pitlochry. In the town centre across from the stall selling whale and seal meat there is a small brewery and "Murphy's Discotheque", which we didn't manage to visit. The beer from Immiaq Brewery we did however manage to taste and I would heartily recommend it, even their berry and thyme infused beers.

Ilulissat, Greenland

Tourism is now a major employer in the town of Ilulissat, but many people are also employed in halibut fishing and processing. The town has almost as many sled dogs as people living in it and Greenlandic sled dogs first arrived on the island 4000 years ago with the Saqqaq people.

As it is a very old breed there are strict rules in place about what dogs are allowed on the island. The dogs are not pets and can be quite wild, with signs all around telling you not to approach them. Also the local nursery playpark has big fences to stop any stray dogs getting into them. There is no great sentimentality to dog ownership and after about 10 years they are too old to pull a sled and are shot. This is a fate that also awaits any loose dogs which bite someone. Hunting is such a normal part of life in Greenland that we passed several people with a rifle casually slung over their shoulder and rifles were on sale in the local SPAR shop just beside the toilet paper, with bullets available behind the counter, a couple of shelves below the Strepsils.

As travel within Greenland is so difficult the football league has been set up to accommodate this. The preliminary rounds are played regionally with several games over 3-4 days. Then the winners all travel to the capital, Nuuk, to play the final competition over a few days. The current champions have held the title for the past three years, Boldklubben af 1967, (or B-67) from Nuuk. The league championship (or the Coca Cola GM to give it it's correct name, I think the GM stands for Greenland Masters) has been won by the local Ilulissat team 10 times, the last in 2007. They proudly display their 10 stars around their badge on their website. They are called Naqdlunguaq-48, or N-48 to you and me.

Football crowd at Ilulissat, Greenland

Whilst we were in town there were matches played every day at the local pitch, with views to the icebergs floating past in the bay. There was a party atmosphere at the matches, which were obviously a big deal in town, with local people setting up stalls nearby selling everything from home baking to craftwork and old clothes. The crowd were perched up the rocky hillside on one side of the pitch and standing at the small terrace opposite.


Although I wasn't able to pick out who all the teams were, those playing in green were local boys Naqdlunguaq-48, sponsored by Carlsberg. Worryingly the referee and linesmen also had Carlsberg sponsoring their outfits, which surely creates a potential conflict of interest for them. 


Slide tackles were only for the brave, or those sensible enough not to be just wearing shorts. The hard surface had the advantage that when someone was injured a Toyota truck was able to drive onto the pitch to have him hurled in the back to be taken off, without endangering the surface.


To our surprise the small singing section of women opposite us kept up a chant to the tune of "When the Saints Go Marching In", although as it was in Greenlandic I wasn't able to pick out the lyrics. With their rhythmic clapping it was a whole lot more melodic than anything I've ever heard from St Mirren fans though.


Whilst the match carried on a group of a dozen cars and trucks continually circled the town honking and cheering, with balloons and flags waving in an attempt to intimidate their opposition. I can only presume that the one gunshot that rang out during the match was from a hunter nearby spotting a seal and nothing to do with this.


 In the picture above you can just about make out the icebergs out in the bay off to the right. Despite this there were clear sunny skies making it a good advert for summer football in Greenland.


As the next teams got themselves ready Naqdlunguaq-48 ran out winners of the match that we watched, so they'll now be my Greenlandic team to look out for...if there was actually anywhere online that you can follow Greenlandic football. For this reason I apologise entirely for any glaring factual errors in the above, but this was as far as my research could take me.

"Oh when the Naqdlunguaq-48.....go marching in..."





Lanark: A Play In Three Acts. Citizens Theatre Company

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Lanark: A Play In Three Acts. Citizens Theatre Company. Glasgow, August 2015


(David Greig's adaption of Alasdair Gray's "Lanark" had it's preview showing in Glasgow last night and this is a brief review. If you haven't read the book before going to see the play, and don't want to know the story, look away now as it may contain some spoilers.)

Saturday 15th August promised to be an exciting day. First up Partick Thistle were taking on Kilmarnock in the afternoon at Firhill, followed by the opening night of Lanark, Alasdair Gray's classic book adapted as a play by David Greig at the Citizens Theatre. Both left me with the same nervous feeling of anticipation, hoping that they would live up to my hopes.

The players take their place at Firhill

At Firhill the one character that never disappoints is that one created by an artist. Kingsley the mascot, the work of David Shrigley. This surreal, untalking vision wanders around the ground before games and is greeted as if it is perfectly normal to raise a smile at a piece of spikey sunshine walking around in Maryhill. More people around Britain, around the world even, are able to imagine a club called Partick Thistle from Glasgow now because of the work of an artist (and the ongoing efforts obviously of the man inside the costume). The Guardian had a photographer following Kingsley around for a couple of hours yesterday, so it still goes on.

The football itself was a piece of theatre in three acts. In Act One Partick Thistle were all over an agricultural Kilmarnock team for half an hour, but despite numerous chances only managed to get one goal. Those in the audience who have seen this type of performance before could guess what the final act would bring, as Kris Boyd warmed up on the touchline like Chekov's gun. In Act Two Kilmarnock equalised, and before the interval could have been ahead. Then the referee nudged things along by reducing Thistle to 10 men. In Act Three we were amazed to find hope as Kris Doolan put Thistle in the lead, before Kris Boyd came off the bench to inevitably snuff it out. It was a great game of football...for the neutral, but left a feeling of injustice and of a missed opportunity for those of us of a Partick Thistle persuasion.

"Man is the pie that bakes and eats himself, and the recipe is separation." - Alasdair Gray, Lanark

I don't think Alasdair Gray had the Firhill pies in mind when he wrote that, which today could generously be described as "well fired".

"Boo!"

As a huge fan of his work I've written about Alasdair Gray before, when a series of events and exhibitions celebrated his 80th birthday last year. That year focused largely of his artworks. His first novel, which cemented his reputation, is "Lanark: A Life In Four Books". First published in 1981 it was apparently written over several decades and, as is the case in most of his books, has both words and pictures provided by Gray creating a unified vision. It tells the parallel and intersecting stories of a young man, who takes the name Lanark, awakening in the sunless city of Unthank (which has a passing resemblance to Glasgow), and of a young man called Duncan Thaw (who has a passing resemblance to the author). "A life in four books" their stories are told in the order of book three, one, two then four, with Duncan Thaw's story being sandwiched in the middle of Lanark's when read this way. Neither men truly fit in or understand their worlds, which seals their fate. In an extended epilogue the "author" meets Lanark and discusses the book and the plagiarisms he filled it with (some real, some invented). He tells Lanark that...
"The Thaw narrative shows a man dying because he is bad at loving. It is enclosed by [Lanark's] narrative which shows civilization collapsing for the same reason
The book is full of nods to other stories, artists, authors and ideas. An "index of plagarisms" in the margins of the epilogue contains refences as varied as William Blake, Joseph Conrad, Walt Disney, Tom Leonard and HG Wells. Of note is the mention of Robert Burns
"Robert Burns' humane and lyrical rationalism has had no impact on the formation of this book, a fact more sinister than any exposed by mere attribution of sources" 
The artwork of the separate book frontispieces also references those that have gone before such as this from "Book Four". The frontispiece of Hobbes Leviathon is redrawn with a landscape of Scotland in the foreground, complete with Dunoon, Faslane and the Forth Rail Bridge. (If you want a colour print of this beautiful image to own, Alasdair Gray recently reworked these for the Glasgow Print Studio).

Hobbes Leviathon, Lanark Book Four
In this spirit the theatre company have created a wee Pinterest board of plagarisms that they may have used, and they suggest that you look out for more in the play.

One of the main characters in the story is Glasgow, with the necropolis in the East End featuring as a gateway to another world (or to a building resembling Stobhill Hospital if you prefer). The book is witty, political, confusing, poignant, frustrating and brilliant. When I heard that David Greig and the Citizens' Theatre planned to make a stage version of the book the obvious question was "How the hell are they going to manage that?" Some of the challenges that they faced are maybe evident in the fact that the first preview night at the Citizens' had to be cancelled, meaning we were watching it tonight on its opening night in Glasgow, before it transfers to the Edinburgh Festival. David Greig seemed to me a perfect choice to interpret the book. He has had success with adaptions as diverse as Euripides' The Bacchae with National Theatre of Scotland and a musical version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. I've enjoyed his plays Dalgety, Dunsinane, The Glasgow Girls and The Events. If you don't already follow David Greig on twitter I would heartily recommend it for terrible puns, political rants and energy sapping tales of his hill running exploits. His works are the kind of things a country can produce when art is funded and supported. To quote Alasdair Gray...
“People in Scotland have a queer idea of the arts. They think you can be an artist in your spare time, though nobody expects you to be a spare-time dustman, engineer, lawyer or brain surgeon.”
In the year that the Citizens Theatre celebrates its 70th anniversary "Lanark: A Life in Four Books" now becomes "Lanark: A Life in Three Acts". Of note in the theatre tonight there was a palpable buzz of excitement amongst the gathered audience. Also they were a more diverse crowd than you often see in the theatre with both young and old drawn to it.


The solutions that they have found to some surreal passages in the book is evident from the first minute with the clever use of projections and animation throughout, often with a nod to the authors original artworks.  Sandy Greirson, who recently played Ivor Cutler on this stage, plays the role of Lanark, and seems to fit the role well. Never manic or hysterical, he presents an essentially good man beneath an emotional carapace.

“He watched them with the passionate regret with which he saw them play football or go to dances: the activity itself did not interest, but the power to share it would have made him less apart.” - Alasdair Gray, Lanark

Jazz tinged music adds an atmospheric sense of place and time as Lanark and the audience arrive in Unthank and a huge degree of choreography goes into revolving the seemingly simple stage set to create a variety of scenes. Greirson is supported by a fantastic ensemble cast, with several well-kent faces from the Scottish stage (Andy Clark, George Drennan, Jessica Hardwick, Paul Thomas Hickey, Louise Ludgate, Helen Mackay and Gerry Mulgrew. Camrie Palmer and Ewan Somers). The first act (Act Two, obviously) finds Lanark trying to work out who he is, trying to fit in and find love in a world where people inexplicably disappear. As his itchy patches of skin inexorably reveal themselves as dragonhide, a metaphorical carapace made real, he descends in a literal sense to a futuristic (in a 1970s Logan's Run type of way) Institute, where those who seem to run the world reside. 

The second act (or Act One - keep up), connects Lanark to Duncan Thaw, the real life of a "Proletarian snob" from the east end of Glasgow determined to be an artist. The cast lead Thaw through his life from the scaffold that becomes Ben Rua and his workplace on an epic church mural. A child with asthma and itchy eczema becomes a man unable to find love and falling into despair and mental illness. Again the script and Greirson don't play this with melodrama but with pathos and an ebbing away of hope.

The final act thrusts us back to Unthank after the characters wander aimlessly and surreally across the Intercalendrical Zone, where the actors break through the theatrical "fourth wall". Whilst civilisation is descending into chaos Lanark must try to save his city and try to connect with his wife and man-child (Ewan Somers doing an impressive turn in the style of Baby Brent from Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs). In the book Gray smashes through the fourth wall with his epilogue to talk to Lanark, on stage this is done in a clever and incredibly imaginative way which chimes so well with the book.

It is a book rammed full of ideas, images, metaphors and devices and it feels as if almost everything in the book has managed to find a place in the play. If you asked 100 different uber-fans of the book which bit had to be kept in for the play you might get 100 different replies. Whilst satisfying the geeks, the play also opens up the book to those who have never got around to reading it in a way that is accessible, whilst entirely in keeping with the unique spirit of the original. That feat may have taken almost four hours of work this evening by all involved in the production, but it was a fantastic and mind-spinning evening of theatre.
"Glasgow is a magnificent city," said McAlpin. "Why do we hardly ever notice that?""Because nobody imagines living here," said Thaw... "Think of Florence, Paris, London, New York. Nobody visiting them for the first time is a stranger because he's already visited them in paintings, novels, history books and films. But if a city hasn't been used by an artist, not even the inhabitants live there imaginatively." - Alasdair Gray
I hope that these words by Alasdair Gray are no longer true and that his works help ignite the creative energy of Glasgow and its people. The play certainly feels like it adds to this legacy.

Alasdair Gray's mural on the wall of Hillhead subway station, Glasgow

48 Hours at Edinburgh Festivals 2015

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Edinburgh Festival Reviews 2015


Like most Glaswegians I am vaguely aware of Edinburgh as a thing, and spend most of the year oblivious to what it is up to. However, in August each year this becomes impossible as the Edinburgh Festivals draw the London media, the combined population of every Oxbridge Drama Soc and 1000s of visitors to the city on a daily basis. This year I had the chance to spend a day off work in Auld Reekie, and take in some of the festival attractions. On Friday I managed to see two concerts from the Edinburgh International Festival, two plays from the Fringe and several exhibitions from the Edinburgh Art Festival. To help me remember what I actually did, I'll knock up a quick review of what I saw. Not only was this a good chance for me to overdose on some culture and entertainment, but as I was using some friends' unused complimentary tickets and gallery passes, I saved myself over £100. Much as that was pleasing for me, it does flag up one of the problems here at the festival, that not everyone gets to join in.



One highlight of this year's Edinburgh International Festival is the new stage adaptation of Alasdair Gray's classic book, Lanark. I caught one of the preview performances in Glasgow (review here) before it transferred to Edinburgh's Royal Lyceum Theatre. After its run in Edinburgh it will return to Glasgow's Citizens Theatre in September, where the tickets are about half the price of the Edinburgh ones. There will also be discounts for those living in the Gorbals and concessions for the unemployed reducing the price of the best seats in the house to £2. I mention this only to highlight the point that ticket prices do not need to be as prohibitively expensive as many appear to be in Edinburgh, where even a student doing an hour's monologue about cheese can expect to charge £12 a go.


Exhibitions


A frequently used device in some of Alasdair Gray's art is the drawing hand of the artist appearing in the work. I was thinking of this whilst seeing the same idea used to such great effect at the wonderful MC Escher exhibition at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, "The Amazing World of MC Escher". They have pulled together a fantastic quantity of his works, from the very familiar, to his early etchings and sketches of Islamic tiles, flat Dutch fields and the Alhambra Palace that you can recognise in his later material. Seeing them in the flesh, instead of in reproduction, you can appreciate the effort and attention to detail that went into producing his work. Also his skill as a craftsman shines through. 

A cancelled etching plate created by MC Escher

I also had the chance to swing past Jupiter Artland, a slowly growing sculpture park of modern art on the outskirts of Edinburgh where I was mesmerised by Tara Donovan's exhibition. Her large sculptures made from Slinkies, plastic cups and the material used to make helium balloons (Mylar) are beautiful. 

Untitled (Mylar) by Tara Donovan

St Mary's Cathedral, Edinburgh
On a more personal level I found the exhibition about the men who served on the boats of the Arctic Convoys during the second world war interesting. The men shown here received the Ushkanov Medal in 2014 for their efforts to try to supply the Russian people. The exhibition itself, in the beautiful St Mary's Cathedral, of photographs and small tapestries inspired by their stories is a bit sparse, but fascinating information about their lives is explored in more detail in the accompanying booklet.

My own interest in hearing about this was because my gran's brother died at sea during the war, off of the coast of Norway (I've written about him here). I now have the Arctic Star which my great uncle was awarded after his death, and I could recognise this medal, amongst others, on the chests of the men in the photographs here.

Arctic Star medal of Donald Bailey

The works from the official Edinburgh Art Festival are scattered throughout Edinburgh and most can be reached by a quick walk around the city centre. Charles Avery's work Tree no. 5 (from the Jadindagadendar) greets you in Waverley Station as you get off of the train from Glasgow. A wee bit harder to find, but worth seeking out is Holoturian by Ariel Guzik. This is in Trinity Apse, a disused church off of the Royal Mile which I can remember coming to when we came through to the Edinburgh Miners' Gala, in the days when it was the brass rubbing centre. Now the space is filled with Ariel Guzik's nautical drawings, collected material, whale sounds and his submersible. The mirror below it reflects the depth of the church tower. 

Ariel Guzak's Holoturian
At Gladstone's Land on the Royal Mile Hanna Tuulikki performs a vocal duet, SING SIGN:a close duet with Daniel Padden on film, and at other times live further down the hill. I am a fan of her work and loved the recent piece she created, "Away With The Birds" (a version of which is now online as an interactive website). The commissions from the Art Festival have taken Italo Calvino's book "Invisible Cities" as inspiration under the theme The Improbable City. This is captured nicely here by the performers, on a two-screen film installation singing a composition based on the strange topography of the medieval closes leading off of the Royal Mile. I was never sure if the seagulls and car engines I could hear in the background were outside this ancient room, in the street, or were part of the film, which all added to a sense of place.

Other exhibitions under the umbrella of the Art Festival include Phyllida Barlow's set at the Fruitmarket Gallery, a work on a disorientating scale. I was a bit disappointed by Here Comes Everybody, an exhibition by kennardphillips at the Stills Gallery which is less finely honed than some of their other work (google kennardphillips, if you don't know the name, you'll recognise their work).

More biting photographic work was on show in the foyer of the Scottish Parliament with the World Press Photo exhibition. This could really have come with some warnings about the graphic nature of some of the content, particularly photos from the Ukrainian conflict and the downed MH17 Malaysian aircraft. A sharp reminder of the powerful storytelling ability of good photojournalism.

A small part of Phyllida Barlow's set

Within the Scottish National Gallery I found the works of 18th century Swiss artist Jean-Etienne Liotard a bit underwhelming. He is not an artist I had ever heard of but his hyper-realism style drew my attention from his wacky self-portrait used on the publicity for the exhibition. The exhibition, largely of court portraiture, doesn't seem to merit the £9 you are charged to view it.

More photography is on show at the Scottish National Gallery, £11 for "Bailey's Stardust" seemed a bit steep and if we had come as a family to these two exhibitions instead of me coming alone using someone else's free pass, this would have been a ludicrously expensive visit. This is a David Bailey retrospective with over 250 photos from over 50 years of work. His early work from 1960's East End London is the most engaging material, where the characters pictured do seem to sparkle. His later court portraiture of the great, the good and the fashionable of the swinging sixties I felt no connection to. Maybe you had to be there.

Royal Mile during the Edinburgh Festival

Music


Musically my day started with Scottish percussionist Colin Currie and friends at the Queen's Hall.

I have seen Colin Currie play several times before, usually his interpretations of Steve Reich's work, and Reich's "Quartet for Two Vibraphones and Two Pianos" was one of the pieces performed here. Before that we had John Adams's Hallelujah Junction, played on two pianos and nicely echoing Reich's style it reveals the piano as the percussion instrument it is in this crisp performance. Both pieces fizzed with jazz-tinged energy. The second half opened with a warm, solo piece for marimba by Norwegian composer Rolf Wallin and ended with Bartok's Sonata for Two Percussion and Piano feeling strangely muted in comparison. It was a great way to spend two hours, even if the highlight of my day was accosting Nobel prize-winning physicist Professor Peter Higgs at the interval. If anybody knows what "star struck" literally means, it is this unassuming man whose achievements I would rather see proclaimed in exhibitions on Princes Street than the images currently there. After texting my science-mad son that I had spotted him, he was dead keen that I get an autograph of one of his heroes. I am grateful to Professor Higgs for tolerating my interruption to his day in the charming manner he did. As my son continues to harbour ambitions to study physics himself this wee memento will mean a lot to him. 

My day finished off with a concert by celebrated Chinese pianist Lang Lang at the Usher Hall. Like many of his performances at the festival this year this concert was sold out. His traditionalist piano repertoire, playing Bach, Tchaikovsky and Chopin this evening, isn't the type of thing I'd normally come to see (as I said above, some of these tickets ended up with me when others weren't able to attend) however it was an entertaining evening, if not exactly the most dramatic performance I have ever seen. For two hours alone at the piano he had the audience eating out of his hand. He began with Tchaikovsky's The Seasons, twelve short pieces Tchaikovsky wrote for the amateur pianist evoking each of the twelve months. I got a bit lost through the year and struggled to get a feel of which seasons were passing. Bach's lively Italian Concertos received "whoops" and applause from the audience for an energetic performance. A Chinese journalist was asking me at the interval if I thought he brought an "Eastern" rather than "Western" interpretation to the music, but I could only offer that he brought a "Lang Lang" interpretation to it, not wanting to say that it was Harpo Marx I was thinking of at times as he pointed, gurned and emoted. The second half, consisting of Chopin Scherzos, was performed with skill and bravura, but didn't give me the warmth and enjoyment I'd felt from the performances earlier in the day. Also particular audience members whom I was sat near were insufferable.

Theatre


In the afternoon my random Fringe choices brought me to Assembly Roxy to see an hour of Dylan Thomas: The Man, The Myth. Narrated by Thomas's grand-daughter Hannah Ellis and performed with Guy Masterton's mellifluous tones, we learned about Hannah trying to find out about the grandfather she never met, and whom I never really knew beyond the image of the drinker poet. What came out most strongly from this was the strength and character of his powerful wife, Caitlin Macnamara, and as I left I passed by Blackwell's bookshop and picked up a copy of some of Thomas's poems. Bizarrely, although I've read all of his prose fiction I've never really given his poetry a go. I also didn't realise how autobiographical many of his writings were until hearing this performance.

Echoes, a play by one-time Spitting Image writer, Henry Naylor, is performed at the Gilded Balloon by Felicty Houlebrooke and Filipa Braganca. They play two 17 year-old women from Ipswich who, separated by over 100 years, go to Afghanistan and Syria to marry and to do their perceived Christian/Muslim duty. The parallels become apparent once we learn that British women were needed to go and marry British soldiers, out in the east fighting for the Empire and trade. As their overlapping monologues unfold we see history repeating itself and gain some insight into the hopes, expectations and disillusionment of both women. It was a fascinating idea, well acted and well told.

Hearts 3-0 Partick Thistle. Tynecastle, 22nd August 2015

On Saturday I was back in Edinburgh with the hottest ticket in town. A sell out crowd filled Tynecastle to see Hearts play Partick Thistle in the SPFL match of the day. Sadly Thistle didn't turn up and Hearts had a straight-forwards 3-0 victory. After this I was in the mood for some uplifting theatre, but as we had tickets for Antigone, we settled for Greek tragedy instead.

I do like the ancient Greek plays, and always try to catch them whenever a version comes around. I have seen some really memorable adaptions of Sophocles and Euripides works, particularly I'm thinking of Theatre Babel's productions of Medea and Elektra. More recently I enjoyed a very traditional performance of Antigone by Strathclyde Theatre Group. My earliest exposure to Antigone was as assistant stage manager at the Knightswood Secondary School Drama Club when our teacher had us perform it for the school. A trifle ambitious I feel in retrospect.

The production at the Edinburgh Festival had already played at the Barbican Theatre in London and featured Juliette Binoche in the lead role. A new translation by Canadian writer Anne Carson and directed by Ivo van Hove, this was a mouthwatering prospect. The thing about Antigone is its ongoing relevance and the fact that it can be so open to interpretation. After the two brothers of Antigone on opposing sides of a civil war die in battle, King Creon decrees that one will be buried with honour, the body of the other left on the battlefield for the birds and wild dogs to eat. Antigone cannot countenance this and defies her uncle, the king, to bury her brother with the dignity she feels everyone deserves. From here we can decide whether obedience to our rulers must come first, trumping family, tradition, personal beliefs, or not. "Either you are with us, or you are with the terrorists" as George W. Bush put it. The programme notes suggest that the Ukranian conflict was an inspiration behind this production, the bodies from the shot down MH17 flight lying ungathered between the opposing forces. We could alternatively think about refugees with this play, or even the Greek economic crisis. Do we obey EU rules above all as Creon may, or act as responsible, feeling human beings as Antigone does? If any of these ideas were floating about, it was the case that they decided against exploring them in this production. Antigone does not seem to have a moral or solid reason for her actions as Juliette Binoche plays her like a rather stroppy teenager. The stripped down setting and modern dress drains a lot of the melodrama of the play, the ending feels underplayed, losing so much impact. The amplified voices of the cast sometimes make it hard to identify who has spoken. The phenomenal story at the heart of it all survives, despite some clunky modern phrases that don't fit well, but it all feels like a missed opportunity. It was good, but it didn't seem to say anything or speak to us.

This was all that I managed to squeeze in with my 2 days at the other end of the M8 motorway. There is another week to run and a thousand other things out there to see and do that I didn't get the chance to. Many of the exhibitions will run on for longer or tour to other places.  Book festivals, comedy, political theatre...aargh, too much choice.

Typical Edinburgh scene during festival.
A man plays a didgeridoo in Princes Street Gardens,
ignored by everybody including the seagulls


Greenland: The Global Warming Frontline

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Greenland 


For a long time we have been trying to organise a holiday in Greenland and finally managed it this summer. The plan was to enjoy an outdoorsy holiday in a place which remains fairly wild and unspoiled. Also it is clear that Greenland will not stay this way forever. As the Arctic ice begins to visibly retreat, oil companies are moving in to try to exploit previously inaccessible northern reserves. President Obama recently approved Arctic drilling in Alaska by Shell, and Greenland has negotiated drilling rights with BP.

The least densely populated country in the world, three quarters of the land mass of Greenland (or Kalaallit Nunaat to the locals) is permanently covered in the largest ice sheet outwith the Antarctic. What towns there are, lie on the coast, mostly on the southwestern part of the island. With no roads linking the towns, transport between them is by sea or by air. The population of this country, which has an area two thirds that of India where a billion people live, is 56,000, roughly the same as Inverness in Scotland. A Danish colony since 1814, Greenland is now semi-autonomous after 75% of the population voted for this in a referendum of 2008. Denmark still contributes approximately $600 million per year to the economy, about a third of the money for Greenland's public spending. Fishing is the main industry in Greenland, but with the receding glaciers and melting ice fields, people are now looking towards exploiting their largely untouched mineral and oil reserves to generate income and finance greater independence.

Local children playing in Ilulissat, Greenland

Greenland has seen successive waves of settlement. The earliest were from peoples from Asia travelling across from the Bering Straits. In 2500BC the Saqqaq people settled in the west around Disko Bay, and they lived here until around 1300BC. Erik the Red and Norse settlers arrived from the east around 980AD and the medieval Icelandic sagas credit him with giving this land the name Greenland, to try and entice other settlers. The Norse settlers left about 500 years later. The Inuit "Thule culture" arrived from the north about 1300AD and are the ancestors of the current native Greenlandic people. Now about 88% of the people are Greenlandic Inuit, the rest largely of Danish descent.

The world's most northerly capital city, Nuuk lies at the southern end of Greenland, a town of 16,000 people situated just south of the Arctic Circle. When we visited Greenland we came further north, to Ilulissat, their third largest town with a population of 4,500 and almost the same number of sled dogs.

Two wolf-like Greenlandic sled dogs, Ilulissat, Greenland

Formerly known as Jakobshavn, the town of Ilulissat lies 220 miles north of the Arctic Circle, on the west coast of Greenland, facing across Disko Bay to Disko Island. Previously in winter this area would be solid sea ice all the way across to Baffin Island and Canada. However every year the sea ice melts earlier and earlier in the year, retreating by about 13% per decade. In 1845 the attempt to traverse the Northwest passage, heading north from here to try to find a sea route above the north of Canada, defeated John Franklin and his men. Now cruise ships can easily make the journey for much of the year. The changes in sea ice also have major effects on the way of life of the northern Inuit peoples. The solid ice that was previously their highways for sled and snow-mobiles, connecting communities and taking them to winter hunting grounds, are no longer navigable for much of the year.

Sea Ice in the southern Greenland Sea, July 2015

When we flew from Iceland to Greenland in July 2015, looking out of the window the first thing that you see is the sea ice lying off the sparsely populated and mountainous eastern coast of Greenland. The ice here has an important role in the circulating sea currents of the northern Atlantic.

Eastern coast of Greenland, July 2015
Eastern Greenland is dominated by the ice cap and steep mountain ranges. 3500 people live on this coast in the isolated towns of Tasiilaq, Kulusuk and Ittoqqortoormiit. Flying over the coast the ice cap is soon seen covering the mountaintops.

Ice sheet of Greenland in the east, covering the mountaintops, July 2015
At its widest point Greenland is about 750 miles across and flying across this all that is visible from horizon to horizon is ice, looking like the surface of an alien planet. The ice cap is 3km thick but currently melting at a rate of 1 metre per year. The problem is that many people now feel that the melting is irreversible. The more that the white ice melts, the less solar radiation is reflected by it into the atmosphere, the warmer the atmosphere then becomes. Also the increased melt water affects the salinity of the northern Atlantic and disrupts the sea currents that control so much of our environment. All indications are that the melting of the ice sheet is accelerating. There is enough water held within the Greenland ice sheet to cause a 7 metre rise in sea levels around the world, so the speed at which it continues to melt will impact upon all of us.

Flying over the Greenland ice sheet, July 2015


Ilulissat and Ilulissat Icefjord


The town of Ilulissat on the west coast of Greenland is positioned close to the opening of the Ilulissat Icefjord. A Danish settlement, founded in 1742 as Jakobshavn, many of the 4500 inhabitants are employed in the local halibut fish processing plant, and now increasingly in tourism. Many also supplement their incomes by fishing themselves, and hunting throughout the year. I was surprised at the sight of many people casually walking about with rifles slung over their shoulder and the crack of distant gunfire was often heard. All through the summer huge icebergs float past the town into the northern Atlantic Ocean from here. The iceberg that is believed to have sunk the Titanic in April 1912 is believed to have been from the glacier here. The Ilulissat Icefjord is now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a site of international importance.

The town of Ilulissat, Greenland, from the sea, July 2015
Further up the Icefjord, several miles inland, one of the largest outflows of the Greenlandic Ice Sheet from Sermeq Kujalleq, or Jakobshavn Glacier, drains into the sea here, with icebergs "calving" frequently off of the edge of the glacier and into the sea. The icebergs then slowly move down the fjord, which is 1km deep, before becoming trapped at its opening into Disko Bay, where the water is more shallow at about 300m. Once the pressure from behind becomes too great a burst of icebergs floats out into the bay. We were there at the end of July 2015 and two weeks later BBC news carried the story that one of the largest ever sections of ice had calved from the glacier front. The glacier front here moves forwards at 20 metres per day, but the chunk which came away in early August 2015 is believed to be 12.9 sq km in size.

2006 Landsat image showing retreat of glacier "calving front" over 155 years
In the satellite image above from 2006, the retreating front of the glacier can be seen. The glacier lies to the right in the picture with the white tongue of ice heading to the bottom left hand corner being pack ice slowly moving down the icefjord to the sea. The town of Ilulissat lies just north of the opening of the icefjord into Disko Bay. You can see that the glacier front has retreated year on year from the earliest recorded position in 1851.

Jakobshavn Glacier Greenland. Aug 16 2015, after
recent sudden advance in glacier "calving front".

The recent image above is from the NASA Earth Observatory website. Satellite images two weeks apart can be compared on the website showing that a massive chunk of the glacier has now broken off into the icefjord. All over the world it is clear from recordings by scientists that the speed of glacier retreat is at "historically unprecedented" levels. What the images above unequivocally make clear is this happening in real time. Dictionaries may need to redefine what "glacial pace" now means.

Disko Bay full of icebergs, at Ilulissat, Greenland. 20th July 2015

Local people told us that the day before we had arrived there was almost no ice in the bay off of Ilulissat, but that a huge iceberg which was blocking the outflow of the icefjord had moved in the night with a rush of icebergs behind it. What is clear now is that two weeks later, with the cork from the champagne bottle removed, further back in the icefjord this allowed the huge chunk to fall from the glacier, witnessed in NASA's satellite images.

Tourists enjoying the ice at Ilulissat

We had come to Greenland from a cold wet summer in Scotland, prepared with waterproofs and warm fleeces for our Arctic trip. We unexpectedly spent the few days we had there wandering around in T-shirts and putting on suntan lotion. With 24 hour sunshine at that time of year, the midday temperature never fell below 15 degrees centigrade. In the warm sunshine we enjoyed some of the local football matches and went for long hikes out towards the icefjord, past the remains of the pre-historic settlements.

Icebergs visible at the end of one of the streets in Ilulissat, Greenland. July 2015


Zion's Church, Ilulissat, with Disko Island 30 miles off in the distance
The brown, wooden Zion's Church in Ilulissat dates originally from about 1781. It is a familiar site from many photographs of Greenland, with huge icebergs often passing behind it. A large anchor beside the door of the church is a memorial to those who have lost their lives at sea, a not unusual occurrence in these waters. 

Iceberg in the bay at Ilulissat, July 2015

Some of the icebergs can be several hundred feet high and only when close to them do you realise how much of their size lies beneath the water. The "white ice" is made from compacted snow, whereas the more dangerous "black ice" is made from re-frozen melt water. It is more dense and lies lower in the water and a local, upon whose boat we took a trip into the bay, told us that this is the ice which sinks the boats of the unwary in these waters.

Iceberg in the bay at Ilulissat, July 2015

As the icebergs melt, and chunks fall off into the sea, they tilt and change shape as the weight shifts, sometimes flipping right over. This can cause sudden unexpected waves to crash onto the shore or boats which get too near. In the photo above you can see the algae which grows on the underside of the icebergs. This in turn feeds the krill, which is food for the many fish and whales that frequent these waters. So changes in the ice will impact on the local environment in many unpredictable ways.

Humpback whale swimming between the icebergs in
Disko Bay, Greenland. July 2015
Whale watching trips can be booked in Ilulissat. As these take several hours to get far enough out towards the areas which whales commonly frequent we didn't bother booking one, but whilst just out in the bay on a short boat trip were lucky enough to see two humpbacked whales swimming about, near to the coast. Like seals, whales are hunted by the local people and seal meat and whale meat were available alongside many fish, at a stall in the town centre. Greenland has been granted an "Aboriginal Subsistence Whaling" quota by the International Whaling Commission. Greenlanders hunt mainly minke whales and fin whales, but in 2014 seven Humpback whales were also killed.

A couple of Ilulissat locals admiring the midnight sun. Greenland. July 2015

In summertime in Greenland the sun never sets. At the latitude of Ilulissat the sun does not set below the horizon from mid-May until the end of July. By contrast in winter, after weeks without sunlight, the people of Ilulissat head to Sequinniarfik, a hill near the town, on January 13th each year to celebrate the return of the sunlight.

The rest of the photographs below are some that we took on hikes towards the icefjord and on a flight over the calving front of the glacier. Known locally as Sermeq Kujalleq, this glacier is one of the few from which the ice of the Greenland ice cap reaches the sea. The only other place in the world where glaciers calve icebergs in this way is in the Antarctic.

View across the land towards the icebergs in the Ilulissat Icefjord. July 2015

Many well maintained hiking routes allow you to walk out from Ilulissat town towards the icefjord. Only then does the true scale of the icebergs become apparent.

Hiking out towards the Ilulissat Icefjord, July 2015


Panoramic view of the Ilulissat Icefjord. July 2015

From above the pack ice in the icefjord looks solid enough to walk upon, but it is constantly moving and unsteady. The moving glacier continues to cut the solid rock of the fjord, gouging it deeper. Looking down on the landscape here you can see in action the forces which sculpted the landscape of Scotland thousands of years ago, when our country was covered in glaciers.

Icefjord viewed from the opening into Disko Bay. Greenland. July 2015

From these photographs below it is hard to picture the scale of the glacier. The ridges on the surface appear to be hundreds of metres high, like cliff faces, and vanish off towards the horizon.

Surface of Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier), Greenland

Surface of Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier), Greenland

Ridges on the surface of Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier), Greenland

Although it is hundreds of metres high, the calving front of the glacier, which NASA witnessed retreating the week after our visit, can appear indistinct as the pack ice in the deep icefjord in front of it presents your eyes with a continuous white mass of snow and ice. When ice does break off it is accompanied by distinctive shotgun cracks and deep rumbles.

Calving front of the Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier). 20th July 2015

Calving front of the Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier). 20th July 2015

Calving front of the Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier). 20th July 2015

After leaving Ilulissat our return flight to Iceland first flew down the west coast of Greenland. Although nowhere else we passed had the dramatic icebergs breaking off from the ice cap, the melting of the ice can be clearly seen, with melt-water channels forming new rivers carrying silt down to the sea.

Melt-water channels on the western coast of Greenland. July 2015

Melt-water channels on the western coast of Greenland. July 2015
We had an unforgettable trip, but were also conscious that we were watching a landscape and a way of life which may soon be gone forever. A Greenlandic official, heading the Office of Self-Governance in 2008 is quoted in Naomi Klein's book "This Changes Everything. Capitalism vs The Climate" as saying
"We're very aware that we'll cause more climate change by drilling for oil. But what should we do? Should we not when it can buy us our independence?"
The more that the world continues to rely upon fossil fuels the greater will be the rate of global warming. Nowhere is that more apparent than in Greenland and the Arctic where the environment has already changed within my lifetime. An exhibition in Ilulissat Art Museum included enlightening interviews with local people, giving their views on climate change. They could all see it happening and were aware of changes in the sea ice and hunting opportunities. Some commented sadly that last year hadn't felt like Christmas as by December it still hadn't snowed in the town. However many were happy to see their lives, which can be very tough in this environment, become easier. We cannot preach to countries or peoples who are in the frontline of these environmental changes. We cannot ask them to accept sacrifices for the benefit of us all, when we are carrying on as before.

In the recent Scottish independence referendum of 2014 a weak point in the independence arguments was an over-reliance on the oil industry as a future source of income for our country. The same argument is obviously being made in Greenland, where their reserves are likely to be more vast and untapped than Scotland's now are. The questions of what would happen to the fishing industry of Greenland were an oil spill from drilling to occur, and the huge difficulties capping such a leak would create in this environment, here or in Alaska, have not yet been answered.

The Arctic is being damaged by climate change and by the threat of oil drilling. In Glasgow we maybe feel that our winters are getting wetter and the summers maybe getting less sunny, but in Greenland you can see change happening in front of your eyes. As a tourist travelling to the area in an airplane powered by fossil fuels I know that my curiosity is contributing to the global problem, whilst the local people are striving to draw in more tourists to help their economy. This shows the problem that the world faces. Increasing demand for rare minerals and fossil fuels is leading to financial incentives in those nations that can access these resources, and further hastening environmental damage.

I knew that I was heading to Greenland to find out what was happening to the environment there, I just didn't expect to come home and find it making the news a week later. Yet despite that important story that I mentioned above, this in fact got very little news coverage anywhere else. We all know things have got to change, but all vaguely hope that something will turn up. Capitalism doesn't work that way. Whilst profit remains the only incentive, we may as well start building higher sea defences now, and yet again the poorest countries are going to come off worst in that situation.

Religious Sites of Glasgow. Doors Open Day 2015

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Glasgow Doors Open Day, 2015


The annual "Doors Open Day" in Glasgow has been running for 26 years now. Organised by the Glasgow Buildings Preservation Trust it aims to celebrate the architecture, history and people of the city by public talks, walks and open access to many buildings normal closed to the public. This year, endeavouring to see some buildings which I haven't previously visited I seem to have ended up going to several religious buildings for a change. Despite these buildings being such prominent parts of the city skyline I had never before been inside the Glasgow Central Mosque, the 'Greek' Thomson designed St Vincent Street Church or the Catholic St Andrew's Cathedral down by the Clyde. So this is what I saw, arranged for no particular reason chronologically by their religion's origins. Religious bigotry and sectarianism has an ugly history in the west of Scotland, and I have avoided taking any interest in religion, so I apologise in advance for any wild factual inaccuracies in what follows.

Tallits, Jewish prayer shawls


Judaism


Garnethill Synagogue, Glasgow
Judaism is usually dated back to the times of the Biblical patriarchs Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, over 3000 years ago. Widespread throughout Europe in the modern era, the earliest records of Jewish people in Scotland come from the 1600s. The first openly Jewish graduate of the University of Glasgow was Levi Myers in 1787, forty-eight years after the earliest university graduate in Scotland, Jakob de Castro Sarmento qualified in medicine from Aberdeen in 1739.  The first person buried within the newly laid out Glasgow Necropolis was Joseph Levi, a quill merchant who died of cholera in 1832. This was because the Jewish community of the city contributed to the fundraising when the necropolis was being created, and a Jewish section was designed within it. In the early twentieth century larger numbers of Jewish immigrants arrived in Glasgow, escaping persecution in Europe and Russia. Like the Irish and Italian immigrants to Glasgow they lived in large numbers in the Gorbals area of the city. Glasgow's first synagogue apparently dates from 1823, on High Street. It moved several times before finding a permanent home in Garnethill in 1879 in Scotland's first purpose-built synagogue.

The words carved in Hebrew above the door are from Deuteronomy and translate as "God alone let him, and there was no strange God with him". I am not sure how the calculation works, but apparently the numerical value of the Hebrew letters used in this verse adds up to the date of the foundation of the building.

Inside the Garnethill Synagogue, Glasgow
So, donning the yarmulke I was given at the door to cover my head, I stepped inside. It is strange that I have visited synagogues before on holiday, but never actually been in one in Glasgow. It contains a strange mixture of familiar Victorian Glasgow architecture mixed with exotic extras, evident straight away from the floor tiles in the entrance hallway.

Floor tiles
Downstairs there was an interesting Scottish Jewish Archive Centre, where a group of local Muslim women were having their numerous questions answered.

Catholicism


The Christian church can be dated back to the followers of Jesus Christ and the term 'Catholic' was used from about 110AD. After the East-West schism of 1054 the Eastern church became known as "Orthodox" and followers of the Bishop of Rome "Catholic". In Glasgow St Mungo is said to have founded his church in the 7th century at the site of the Glasgow Cathedral on Castle Street. From the 12th century this was the seat of the bishop of Glasgow and became an archdiocese of the Catholic Church in 1492. In the late 16th century Glasgow Cathedral was one of the few churches which was not destroyed during the Scottish Reformation and passed into use as a Protestant church. The current Catholic Cathedral of Glasgow, St Andrew's Cathedral, was designed in 1814 by James Gillespie Graham. It lies in the city centre on the north bank of the River Clyde, almost overwhelmed by a modern day cathedral of commerce, the St Enoch's Shopping Centre, which sits behind it. Saint Enoch was a saint of medieval Glasgow, the mother of Saint Mungo (or Kentigern as he is also known).

Saint Andrew's Cathedral, Glasgow
From the time of the Scottish Reformation in 1560 until the Roman Catholic Relief Act of 1791, which restored the freedom of worship, Roman Catholics in Glasgow had to worship covertly.  With industrialisation in the city and increasing numbers of Catholics arriving in Glasgow from the Highlands and from Ireland it was decided to build a church for their use. The Catholic church to St Andrew was completed at this site on Clyde Street in 1816. This was not a trouble-free construction, with saboteurs damaging the nascent building at night in the early stages, requiring guards to be employed to protect the construction site initially.

Interior of Saint Andrew's Cathedral, Glasgow
A major renovation project was undertaken between 2009-2011 with new artwork commissioned and the construction of a cloister memorial garden to Italian Scots who died aboard the Arandora Star. This ship was torpedoed and sunk in 1940 whilst carrying "enemy aliens" during the war. Of the 734 Italians on board, 486 died.

As well as St Mungo establishing his church on Castle Street in Glasgow of the 7th century, St Constantine had arrived maybe 100 years earlier, about 500AD, and established a wooden church at Govan. With Glasgow only a small town at this time, Govan was a completely separate hamlet for centuries. The first Govan church was built beside a ceremonial hill and sacred well. The people here were Britons, different from their neighbouring Picts and Scots and Govan means "little hill" in their language. Ironically the hill in Govan no longer exists, as it was flattened in making the industrial Govan we know from the 20th century, to make space for the sheds of the Harland and Wolff shipbuilding company. The kingdom of the Clyde Britons was controlled from Dumbarton (Dun Breatann meaning "fort of the Britons") and was a powerful kingdom in the British Isles after defeating the Scots of Dalraida. In 756 the combined Picts and Nothumbrians ford the Clyde at Govan and defeat the Britons at Dumbarton. The early church in Govan is at the site of what is now called Govan Old Parish Church. Although I have previously read about the Govan Stones, I had never gone to see them before. The church is home to many famous early medieval stones, carved between the 9th and 11th century. One of the earliest is a beautiful stone sarcophagus from around 850AD, carved from a single block of stone.

Carving on the Govan Sarcophagus

Norse Paganism


After a four month siege in 870AD Vikings destroyed the fortress at Dumbarton. The king of the Britons is killed. A new king is appointed and moves up river, becoming based at Govan and a new name appears for the kingdom, "king of the Britons of Srath Clúade (Strathclyde)". The other stones found in Govan Old Parish Church come from the period 900-1100AD.

Five carved Norse "Hogback" stones in Old Gorbals Parish Church
These include carved recumbent stones, free-standing crosses and Norse 'hogbacks'. The hogback stones are usually associated with Viking settlement and suggest that over this period high status Vikings were living in this area. Although Vikings had their own pagan beliefs, in Denmark and Sweden they converted largely to Christianity in the 11th and 12th century. To which gods the Vikings of Govan prayed may never be known.

The 'sun stone'
Around 1000AD the kings of Strathclyde have their palace across the river Clyde in Partick, but worship in the old church of St Constantine at Govan, and use the hill to the east of the church for ceremonial purposes. Their royal graves are in the churchyard at Govan. Around 1050 King David I conquers the kingdom of Strathclyde and takes it into his Scottish kingdom. The importance of Govan fades as he bases religious activity in the cathedral in Glasgow. The royal lands at Partick are taken over by the bishops of Glasgow. Over 500 years the village of Govan grows up around Govan Cross. A new church is built and the gravestones from this time show the trades of the contemporary local residents.

Gravestone in Govan churchyard. Date looks like 1690
After the Scottish Reformation of the 16th century the church here became run as a Protestant church. The village of Govan continued to get bigger and in 1864 was made into a Burgh, with its own administration. Soon the church was felt to be too small for its needs and was replaced with the current building, constructed between 1884-1888. Over the next 50 years Govan continues to boom and grow with the arrival of shipbuilding. The growing town was annexed to Glasgow in 1912. In the same year Harland and Wolff buy three small shipyards and flatten the Doomster Hill to build their slipways and huge worksheds.

Current Old Govan Parish Church
A notable minister of the Govan Old Parish Church from 1930 was Rev George MacLeod. Disillusioned with post-war Britain after the first World War and concerned over social inequality in Scotland he became a Socialist and an active member of the Peace Pledge Union. He resigned his position in Govan in 1938 and set up the Iona Community.


Former fitting out basin of Harland and Wolff,
across the Clyde from the current Museum of Transport


Islam


Muslims follow the Islamic faith, a monotheistic Abrahamic faith which originated in Arabia. The Qur'an is the holy book for Muslims, which was revealed to the prophet Muhammed over 23 years by the angel Gabriel. Muhammed lived from about 570AD - 632AD.

Although many more may have been undocumented, the first Muslim known to live in Scotland was a medical student from Bombay, Wazir Beg, in Edinburgh in 1858. Manufacturing and trade in Glasgow meant that many Muslims arrived in the city working as lascars or sailors. Records from the Glasgow Sailors Home on the Broomielaw from 1903 show that at that time nearly a third of the 5500 boarders were Muslim lascars. Immigrants from South East Asia, particularly Pakistan, in the late 20th century increased the Scottish Muslim population to about 1.4% of the population by 2011. More recent immigrants from Africa, Afghanistan and the Balkans have added to the diversity of this population. The first purpose built mosque in Glasgow opened its doors in 1984.

Glasgow Central Mosque
I have visited some of the smaller mosques of Glasgow before but this was my first visit to the Glasgow Central Mosque, just south of the River Clyde at the edge of the Gorbals. It is one of the most recognisable buildings in the city with its dome illuminated at night and its prominent minaret. The majority of early Muslim immigrants to Glasgow, like the Irish, Jews and Italians before them, lived in the Gorbals area of the city where the mosque was later built. The main hall can accommodate 2,500 people at prayer and will be busy later this week with Eid marking the end of the Hajj.

Inside Glasgow Central Mosque

Taken on a tour of the building, with its adjacent community centre, our Malcolm X quoting guide was at pains repeatedly to clarify misconceptions about Islam. It is clear that some Muslims can feel at times there are constant media reports of their perceived role in all the problems round the world, causing misunderstanding and fear. When he talked about the un-Islamic actions of those fighting their fellow Muslims in Syria just now, it was hard not to see echoes of this in accusations down through the centuries within several other religions. It seems to me that most wars and battles fought in the name of a religion tend to be about power, resources and land once you break it down rather than a battle of ideals. This is the same whether talking about ISIS in the Middle East, the Christian Crusades, the Rough Wooing of Mary Queen of Scots, King Billy and the Battle of The Boyne, the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the Troubles in Northern Ireland... Take your pick.

Not remembered in the current portrayal of Islam are the contributions Muslim thinkers have given to the world, particularly in science, medicine and mathematics. You only need to think about the origins of the words algorithm, algebra and alchemy to see where they originated.

Protestantism


The Christian church in Scotland means many different things to different people. The Church of Scotland website has an "Historical Directory To Glasgow Presbytery" listing the changes in parishes and churches over the years in the city and it runs to 360 pages if you have an interest in this. The roots of the Church of Scotland date back to the Scottish Reformation of 1560, led amongst others by John Knox, whose statue looks out over Glasgow from a pillar atop the Necropolis behind Glasgow Catherdral. He established a Protestant church on Calvinist principles.

Glasgow Cathedral
Glasgow Cathedral is one of the few medieval churches that survived the Reformation and the current building dates back to the 12th century, allegedly on the site where St Mungo (a.k.a. St Kentigern) built his church in the 7th century. If you want to get an impression of how close it came to being destroyed during the Reformation look at the bullet riddled door in the Sacristy from this time. It was saved because the organised trades of the city took up arms to defend it from the mob intent on bringing it down. The defenders outnumbered the attackers and it survived, "cleansed of its Catholic trappings". The University of Glasgow was founded at this site too, within the precinct of the cathedral in 1451, before later moving west in the city. 
St Vincent Street Church, Glasgow
In contrast to the austere, gothic medieval cathedral, the Glasgow City Free Church have their home in one of the most grand and beautiful creations of famous Glasgow architect Alexander "Greek" Thomson. At the time he rejected the popular Gothic Revival style of many of his contemporary architects, getting his inspiration from Greek Classical styles. Built in 1859 for the former United Presbyterian Church of Scotland, the St Vincent Street Church is currently used by a congregation of the Free Church of Scotland. It is the only one of the three churches Thomson designed which is still in tact.

Interior of St Vincent Street Church, Glasgow
Here you can see the interior which he designed for it too, full of light and space. the decorative motifs inside are more flamboyant than would normally be acceptable in a Presbyterian church. It is so sad to see the empty shell of the Greek Thomson designed Caledonia Road Church sitting in the Gorbals, with its interior destroyed by fire in the 1960s.



Another church that I visited on the Doors Open Day was also commissioned by the Free Church using an innovative Glasgow architect. In 1896 the Free Church of St Matthew, Glasgow commissioned a new church and hall from architects Honeyman and Keppie. The job was allocated to their young, talented, trainee architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Architectural drawings for the Queens Cross Church
Following the beliefs of their religion the design had to be simple, yet Mackintosh managed to handle this beautifully, producing a distinctive, charming, warm and functional building. Queens Cross Church is one I pass whenever I head to see Partick Thistle, whose ground lies just behind the church. Built between 1898 and 1899 it was the only church he designed.
The nave of the Queens Cross Church, Glasgow
 In 1929 the Free Church was reunited with the Church of Scotland, which took over ownership of the Queens Cross church. In 1976 with a declining congregation, the church merged with Ruchill Church and vacated the building, which has become the headquarters of the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society.

Mackintosh designed pulpit in Queens Cross Church
In this building Mackintosh designed the interior artwork and fittings too, right down to the communion table, alms dishes and armchairs. His distinctive designs can be seen on the wood carvings of the pulpit.



Sikhism


Topped with their golden domes, there have been two distinctive new additions to the Glasgow skyline in recent years. The first purpose-build Sikh Gurdwara in Scotland opened its doors in 2013, in Polloksheilds beside the Tramway. Another new Gurdwara will also soon be opening soon in Glasgow on Berkeley Street, opposite the Henry Wood Halls. 

Glasgow Gurdwara on Albert Drive, behind the Tramway's 'Hidden Garden'
Sikhism was founded in the Punjab region of India in the 15th century. It is based on the teachings of Guru Nanak (the first Guru) and the ten successive Sikh Gurus. Now the book of Sikh scripture is the Guru and is treated with great respect. The first documented Sikhs living in Scotland are from 1854 in Perthshire. Sikhs date the first Glaswegian Sikhs to the 1920s when a Gurdwara was established in South Portland Street. Further immigration in the later 20th century means that Sikhs now make up 0.2% of the Scottish population, with the largest population being in Glasgow. In the synagogue I had my head covered, in the mosque I had taken my shoes off to enter the prayer hall. Here my head was covered and shoes off to enter the Gurdwara. Our young guide told us with obvious enthusiasm about Sikhism and the Gurdwara and encouraged us to visit the free food kitchen, or Langar, an important part of any Gurdwara.

Hinduism


Although their place of celebration was not open during the Doors Open Day, it seems only fair to also mention the Glasgow Hindu Mandir. Hinduism contains a broad range of philosophies and religious cultures and has many deities. It dates to the 6th century BCE and is the religion followed by the majority of people in India and Nepal. The majority of Hindus in Scotland arrived in the second half of the 20th century, many escaping Idi Amin's Uganda in the 1970s. Hindus now make up 0.3% of the Scottish population. I have previously been in the Hindu Mandir Glasgow building at Belle Place, near Kelvingrove Park, for a wedding which was a very laid back, friendly and colourful event. Unfortunately you will have to make do with a photo of the outside which I took when I passed it on my bike today.

Hindu Mandir Glasgow
Summary

In Glasgow I think we are now getting away from the days when the first question a stranger (or someone interviewing you for a job) asked was "what school did you go to?" to work out if you were a Catholic or a Protestant. However we are far from being a city that can preach to anyone about religious tolerance. I sadly think that we are defining people more and more by religion. There is talk of the Muslim population or Jewish community. Religion is only one aspect of a people's culture. I am not a great fan of defining people or a population by their religious views and each religion has a spectrum of differing perspectives and beliefs. Scottish Christians can be a member of the Roman Catholic, Scottish Episcopal, Free Church, United Free Church, Church of Scotland, Free Presbyterian Church, Associated Free Presbyterian Church or the Reformed Presbyterian Church of Scotland. That's just our local ones. People living in the same street, or working in the same factory have much more in common with each other than do a businessman and a shop worker of the same religion.

A lot of people, particularly immigrants, feel a cultural link and connection with a religion. The rituals and celebrations their parents and grandparents enjoyed. I am an atheist but still enjoy rolling eggs down a hill with my children at Easter. I understand the symbolism of it and remember doing it as a child with my own parents, but I don't define myself as a Christian. The diversity of religious institutions in Glasgow that I have visited this weekend just reflects the diversity of Glasgow's immigrants over centuries. From Norsemen to Lithuanians, people from the Punjab and Sri Lanka, Scottish Highlanders, Italians and Irish.

I know it sounds corny to end this way but I agree with the city's current slogan that "People Make Glasgow" and I religion is a small part of the culture of those people, if they wish. So I finished my day in Dowanhill Church, built in 1865. I admired the work of the artist Daniel Cottier who designed its interior, the craftsmen that erected the building and those restoring it. I then had a nice pint of beer and some lunch and wondered if the day will come when all the places I saw today will become museums, theatres, community centres, restaurants and bars.
Cottiers Bar and Theatre, Glasgow




The Turner Prize and Other Exhibitions in Glasgow

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Art Galleries in Glasgow and the Turner Prize Exhibition


With the annual jamboree of the Turner Prize visiting Glasgow at present a few national newspapers have done "What to see in Glasgow" sections, which have been a wee bit on the unimaginative side I have to say. So I wanted to have a quick run around some of the galleries in Glasgow that I like to visit in order to encourage other people to go and have a wee look at them from time to time. As attractions go these Glasgow galleries generally have the advantage of regularly changing their exhibits, so that if there is nothing that you fancy when you visit, there'll be another one along soon. Also they are usually absolutely free to visit.

Glasgow has established a reputation for being home to some of the best and most imaginative contemporary artists in Britain, often referred to as the "Glasgow miracle". The galleries in the city, and their visitors, have been an important part of that.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Glasgow

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

Anybody wanting to find art in Glasgow should start at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum .

Main Hall at Kelvingrove Art Gallery
Alasdair Gray often talks about his childhood visits here starting him on his road to becoming an artist and like many people I can remember being brought here with my school class and being asked to pick an exhibit from the galleries and draw it for their regular competitions. The museum lies on Dumbarton Road in the west end of Glasgow. Opened in 1901 as The Palace of Fine Arts for the Glasgow International Exhibition of that year it has been an integral part of the city ever since It is where my great-uncle Andy who worked in the shipyards liked to take my mum for a day out and where I have spent many days with my own children. I really don't visit it as often as I used to since it re-opened after refurbishment in 2002, I knew the dusty old layout like the back of my hand and felt it lost a bit of character with the revamp. However it remains the most visited museum in the UK outside of London, a great advert for free entry to museums. 


As well as an impressive collection of French impressionists' paintings and Dutch and Flemish art there is a large collection of Scottish art on permanent display. This includes a small selection of works by the Scottish Colourists and a room of works by the Glasgow Boys, a loose alliance of about 20 artists from the 1880s. However many people come specifically to see one painting, Salvador Dali's Christ of St John's on the Cross. A controversial acquisition in 1952, at one time attacked in protest, it has proven to be a very astute purchase by then director, Tom Honeyman. I presume that any controversy over Dali's depiction of Christ has died down, as when I went to see it last week there was a nun sitting alongside me inspecting it.

Salvador Dali's Christ of St John on the Cross

Downstairs there is a temporary exhibition space, which charges an entry fee, currently for an exhibition on 19th century fashions.


Hunterian Art Gallery


Hunterian Art Gallery and Mackintosh House, Glasgow

Not far from Kelvingrove Art Gallery is found another fine collection of world class paintings. The University of Glasgow is home to the Hunterian, one of Scotland's oldest public museums, founded in 1908. The collection is currently displayed on two separate sites within the university, although part of it will soon be moving to a new space in nearby Kelvin Hall (opening summer 2016). It was founded with a bequest from 18th century anatomist Dr William Hunter and has many artifacts collected by him on display in the museum, which is housed in the main university building. Across University Avenue in a modern building beneath the high towers of the University Library is The Hunterian Art Gallery


Works by Joan Eardley in the Hunterian Art Gallery, Glasgow

Behind the large metal doors designed by Eduardo Paolozzi  are paintings from the likes of Rubens and Rembrandt. The Glasgow Boys and Joan Eardley are well represented and there is a fabulous selection of works from the Scottish Colourists. This includes one of my favourite pictures in the world, Les Eus by JD Fergusson, a huge and joy-filled canvas painted about the same time as Matisse's Dance


Les Eus by JD Ferguson

Other highlights here are the extensive collection of works by James Abbott McNeill Whistler and by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the latter of which are on display in a recreation of his (now demolished) nearby house. There are also rotating temporary exhibitions here (currently on animals in the art of George Stubbs and others). In the upper floor there is another temporary exhibition space which houses an ever changing selection of displays which sometimes incur an entry fee, although the current one on Scottish archaeology is free.


The Common Guild 


The Common Guild, Woodlands Terrace, Glasgow

A lesser known gallery space in nearby Park Circus is The Common Guild. Home to a visual arts organisation you can browse through the art books in their library whilst visiting their exhibitions. They use the ground floor and first floor of a handsome Victorian town house as gallery space, usually open from Wednesdays to Sundays. Until 13th December they have an exhibition by German artist Thomas Demand called "Daily Show". As so many people record all sorts of images day to day, on phone cameras he has used a mobile phone camera to record undramatic scenes from daily life and produced large prints of them, from missing roof tiles in an office to clothes pegs on a line. As a camera phone addict myself I enjoyed seeing his take on this sort of thing. I must try harder with my efforts.




Glasgow Print Studio


Trongate 103

The next galleries are all housed in one block in the city centre at Trongate103. At the corner of Trongate and King Street can be found a building where you can see, amongst other things, the fantastical junk sculptures of Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre  (makers of the big mechanical clock in the National Gallery of Scotland in Edinburgh), the gallery space of Project Ability, a visual arts workshop for people with learning difficulties and the Glasgow Print Studio. Here a diverse and constantly changing range of exhibitions make it a place worth coming back to again and again. Having just finished with an exhibition of comicbook art from the world of Mark Millar, they now have on upstairs an exhibition of  etchings and monotypes by Ken Currie (until 18th October). He became known as one of the "New Glasgow Boys" along with fellow 1980s Glasgow Art School trained Adrian Wisniewski, Steven Campbell and Peter Howson.


Dead Finches, Kelvingrove, Ken Currie
There is a lot of death and darkness on show in Ken Currrie's prints, and known for portrait painting his portraits stand out in the exhibition. Amongst images of dead birds from North Uist I did like this one above of "Dead Finches, Kelvingrove" showing that the days of my primary school trips to draw from the Kelvingrove displays live on in this 2015 etching.

Iranian born Jila Peacock's paintings downstairs depicting scenes from the medieval Persian poem The Conference of the Birds were a colourful contrast to what's going on upstairs. Loved them.

Transmission Gallery


Also housed here at Trongate103 is Transmission Gallery. This gallery is often cited as one of the reasons the Glasgow art scene has blossomed in recent decades. Set up in 1983 by Glasgow Art School graduates it aims to encourage, support and exhibit young artists. If you are walking down to get a mushroom burger and some music at Mono, you might be tempted in by some strange offering in the big windows here. At present it looks like they are clearing up between exhibitions or from a Transmission party.


Street Level Photoworks


Next door to Transmission gallery is found Street Level Photoworks, a gallery for local and international art photography. Their current exhibition Surface Tension (until 8th November) shows the work of four artists. I was attracted to the pictures by Karen L Vaughan of east coast fishing villages from Angus to Pittenweem, presented as fragmentary panoramas. 

The Modern Institute


The Modern Institute, Glasgow

Just around the corner from the Tron Theatre on Osborne Street is The Modern Institute which presents a very varied selection of exhibitions from artists which they represent. Currently their ground floor exhibition space is showing works by Merseyside born Michael Wilkinson called Sorry Had To Done. As well as there being plenty of visual fun here, there were pieces that left me stroking my beard in contemplation. I liked the fluorescent strip light bulbs bound together as "fasces" and the huge tower of Lego beside "Dream a Garden", a pile of concrete rubble from a recently demolished tower block in the east end of Glasgow arranged into a neat rectangle. A former tower block resident myself I've watched my childhood home of grey concrete be reduced to rubble recently. I liked the whole range of ideas the title triggered off. 

SORRY HAD TO DONE by Michael Wilkinson, Modern Institute, Glasgow
The Modern Institute have another space across the road from the Briggait on Aird's Lane.


The Centre For Contemporary Arts (CCA)


CCA on Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow

The Centre For Contemporary Arts (CCA) on Sauchiehall Street occupies an old 'Greek' Thomson building and has exhibition space, a cinema, music venues, a vegetarian cafe, a bookshop and arty gift shop. It has been home to the Glasgow avant-garde since the 1970s when it was called the Third Eye Centre. In the late 70s my mum worked in the cafe whilst she was at college. During the school holidays their laid back approach to childcare meant that my brother and me spent a lot of time there when my mum was working: refilling the filter coffee machine, changing the big boxes in the milk fridge or just playing in the gallery spaces. It wasn't me that kicked over the lines of sawdust we didn't realise were an exhibition (that may have been my wee brother).

The Referendum Made Me Horny by In The Shadow of the Hand, at CCA, Glasgow

The current exhibition The Shock of Victory is a sad/ironic look at the world exactly a year after the Scottish independence referendum, including building an archive from the campaign. It is as unusual as you would expect from an exhibition here, but benefits from the viewer spending a bit of time reading the ideas behind the pieces. Symposia, talks and films run alongside the exhibition. Lovely place to have a beer, a coffee or a lunch.

Gallery of Modern Art Glasgow



When The Gallery of Modern Art Glasgow opened in the Royal Exchange Square in 1996 Douglas Gordon that year became the first Scottish artist to win the Turner Prize. Yet the modern Scottish artists of the time, who were successfully exhibiting their works around the world had any works on display in this gallery of modern art. No longer. With the Turner Prize exhibition visiting the city at present at the Tramway, the main hall of the gallery is at present given over to an exhibition of works made in the city since that time. Over twenty artists, including several former winners or nominees for the Turner Prize are on show, starting with the neon signs outside, by Ross Sinclair. I am glad to see such a comprehensive exhibition being put on, whilst some of the space in the museum is closed off for renovation. David Shrigley has some animations on show, paintings and sculptures by Martin Boyce, Toby Paterson Jim Lambie and others fill the hall.

Devils in the Making at GOMA, Glasgow
Upstairs there are exhibitions worth seeing including rarely seen works from the Glasgow Museums archive chosen by modern artists, including a lovely oil painting by Walter Sickert and a painting by Bridget Riley. On the top floor woman in art are highlighted in an engaging exhibition in collaboration with the Glasgow Women's Library.

Glasgow Sculpture Studios


Glasgow Sculpture Studios at The Whisky Bond building

On the banks of the Forth and Clyde Canal lies The Whisky Bond building, now home to numerous studio spaces and the Glasgow Sculpture Studios. Their gallery on the ground floor is open Wednesday to Saturday, making it a wee place to stop off at on your way to get some shopping at SeeWoo or on your walk along the canal to see Partick Thistle. Currently they have some work by Nicolas Deshayes, Darling, Gutter, expanded foam around the hot water pipes of the room, making these blobby shapes also functioning radiators as it were.

Darling, Gutter by Nicolas Deshayes

Tramway


Enterence to the Tramway in Pollokshields, Glasgow

Okay, last but not least, I made it to the Tramway where the current Turner Prize exhibition is displayed. Originally a tram shed built in 1893 the building was made into the Glasgow Transport Musuem in the 1960s when Glasgow decided that trams were the transport of the past (Doh!). As my granny lived in Mosspark we came here regularly to see the vehicles that are now housed in the modern Riverside Museum designed by Zaha Hadid. Since 1988 this old industrial building has been an arts venue and now also home to Scottish Ballet

Turner Prize nominees 2015
The main hall at the Tramway has been broken up into large white cubes where the four nominees for this years prize show their stuff. There is a long and illustrious list of past winners and nominees on one wall of the exhibition, from Gilbert and George to Antony Gormley, Damien Hirst and Rachel Whiteread. Then Scottish based artists start to feature regularly like Martin Boyce who won in 2011 and David Shrigley and Ciara Phillips nominated in recent years. Ironically in the year the show is in Glasgow no locals are represented.

I arrived at the Tramway today a bit hungry and the food I got in the cafe was, to say the least, disappointing so I may have looked around the exhibition in a bit of a bad mood. However the exhibition didn't really lift my spirits much. Nicole Wermers spoke of people claiming public space for themselves by putting a coat on a chair, when I would have thought it is usually just that it would be otherwise too hot or a case of dumping it on the floor. To illustrate it with pelts of dead animals stripped of their coats just annoyed me. Then nothing winds me up more than people going on about the paranormal, so a roomful of it from Bonnie Camplin was never going to be for me. Janice Kerbel has some unaccompanied opera singers reciting her words, something I've seen Richard Youngs producing more effectively recently at  Counterflows festival in Glasgow without a nomination for an art prize. The final display is of a showroom/workshop of the Assemble collective about their work in working with a Liverpool housing re-development.

As a visual spectacle the Turner exhibition is a bit earnest and the logo emblazoned everywhere "Show Me Some Thing New" feels a bit at odds with the actual exhibits.

There are plenty of new, innovative, imaginative, thoughtful, fun, interesting exhibitions on in Glasgow just now. I haven't included some galleries which I didn't get to, or which didn't have an exhibition on the days this week I was wandering about such as the Collins Gallery, The Pipe Factory or David Dale Gallery. So go beyond the Turner exhibition to see if you can spot next year's nominees.

A Geeks' Trip to London. Codebreakers, Boy Wizards and Cosmonauts

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Last weekend I had reason to be in London and although we had some things to attend to whilst there, decided to take the opportunity to see some sights during our trip. As my teenage son was coming with me, a few other trips got added to our itinerary at his suggestion.

Here are the three highlights of our trip. It turned into a bit of a geeks' weekend.



Bletchley Park



Driving to London we made a detour to Milton Keynes. This was not to admire the bland curves of the MK Stadium, 30,000 seater home of the MK Dons and venue for three 2015 Rugby World Cup matches, but to visit Bletchley Park. 


MK Stadium, Milton Keynes
A German Enigma machine,
at Bletchley Park
Bletchley Park was home to the World War 2 codebreakers. Churchill described their work here as shortening the war by two years, and it was home to an eclectic group of people. Most well known amongst them was Alan Turing, the mathematician generally considered to be the father of computing. Persecuted during his lifetime for his homosexuality, his achievements are only now getting the recognition which they deserve. In the early 1990s a campaign was launched to save the codebreakers' huts at Bletchley Park from demolition by housing developers and now preserved, a museum has been built in the huts to explain the work of the codebreakers. The development of the exhibits is an ongoing process and now the grounds and the mansion house, which dates back to the 1870s, have been restored to their wartime appearance. The German Enigma machines were used to scramble messages into unintelligible ciphers. The settings were changed daily to allow trillions of possible combinations, making the cipher virtually unbreakable. 

Pride of place is given to a rebuilt Bombe machine, the machine which Alan Turing and Gordon Welchman devised to break the Enigma code used by the Germans during the war. Daily it was set running to try to work out the combination for the day, to allow messages to be understood whilst they were still operationally relevant.

A rebuilt Bombe machine at Bletchley Park being tested

In this room a bunch of men in tanktop sweaters with pliers sticking out of their pockets and cables slung around their neck proudly demonstrated the machine in action.

Sculpture in slate of Alan Turing

In other buildings on the site are found equally geekish exhibitions. One building houses the National Radio Centre, a museum on the history of radio communication. Here we found more excited middle aged men huddled around their equipment, as they tried to contact a home made satellite which was apparently passing overhead whilst we visited. Nearby is the National Museum of Computing which houses an amazing collection of ancient computers and mainframes. Among them is a working version of the world's first electronic computer, "Colossus", which they have rebuilt. It was developed at Bletchley Park in 1944 to decipher the more complex German Lorenz codes. It could do the calculations required to break the code in a matter of hours that were taking people weeks to break. With 2,500 thermiotic vacuum tube valves in each machine there were two of these working at Bletchley Park by June 1944, meaning the Allied army could be sure that Hitler had swallowed their deception plans prior to D-Day on 6 June 1944. 


Colossus at the National Museum of Computing
Bletchley Park was an unexpected treat, suitably amateurish and homespun at times, but conveying an excitement and buzz about the place too. Nice cafe in one of the huts and no need to pre-book tickets, just turn up and wander around


Warner Brothers Studio Tours, London. Harry Potter


As my teenage son got to choose where else we visited on our trip, we inevitably ended up at the Warner Brothers Studio Tour in Leavesden, just outside the M25. The Harry Potter films were produced here over a ten year period and now many of the sets, props and costumes are laid out as a visitor attraction. Some people have seen the films and found them mildly distracting, some people read the books cover to cover on the day of publication, re-read the whole series monthly and can identify each brand of confectionery which acts as a background prop in the film. One of these descriptions fits for me, one for my son.
The Hogwarts Express at Warner Brothers Studio

We arrived on a Friday afternoon when the London children were at school, but the place was absolutely heaving, with apparently equal numbers of French families, Japanese tourists and locals jostling for position. Entry times had to be pre-booked before visiting and there were very few slots left on the day we wanted to go. They recommend spending three hours on the visit, and that is probably about right as the place is absolutely huge. Film sets for other films still ongoing can be seen behind fences outside the exhibition space, in what is still an active film studio. 


Dolores Umbridge stuff at Warner Brothers Studio

You start off by being led as a group into the set of the Great Hall at Hogwarts, which was laid out for a Hallowe'en feast when we were there. After that you wander through a large hall of props and sets from the films. My son had been before and reliably informs me that they had changed a few things around since his last visit.


I found the attention to detail and the craft of the prop makers fascinating, from labels on bottles, to portraits decorating hallways (many of which feature wee Easter eggs of cast and crew members or incidental characters from the books, apparently).



An outdoor section which is home to the houses of Privet Drive also has a Ford Anglia and Hagrid's motorbike from the films, which you can pose upon. You can also hand over money to get photos of yourself flying a broom or sitting in a railway carriage in front of a green screen.

Impressive models used to create sets for the films

Detailed model of Hogwarts used for filming
We decided against a frothy pint of (alcohol free) Butterbeer in the cafe, as my son had tasted it before and warned me it is rotten, but we did get waylaid in the gift shop buying armfuls of junk, chocolate frogs and Bertie Bott's Every Flavour Beans. I'll be honest and say that my son enjoyed it more than me, but he did absolutely love it, so we were all happy.

Cosmonauts: Birth of the Space Age. Science Museum, London


I have tried to find an excuse to get to the current exhibition at the Science Museum in London ever since I heard that they were planning it. Running until March 2016 this exhibition tells the story of how the Soviet Union became the first nation to explore space. It starts with early Soviet art and science fiction from the 1920s, including some fascinating sketches of ideas for space suits, airlocks and spacewalks by Tsiolkovsky, the early pioneer of astronautic science.


A samovar shaped like Sputnik, which launched in 1957

There is plenty about Sputnik, the iconic first ever artificial Earth satellite, and its cultural impact (a 1957 edition of Paris Match said the "the dogma of the USA's technical superiority has been shattered"). The remarkable stories of the first dog in space Laika, of the first Cosmonaut, the ever-smiling Yuri Gagarin and the first man to walk in space, Alexei Leonov are great to hear. Leonov's story demonstrates the relatively Heath Robinson attitude of early space travel, as he had to let air out of his suit, which had over-inflated in the vacuum of space, to fit back into the narrow door of his Voskhod 2 module.



Vostok landing module
As impressive as seeing the actual Vostok and Soyuz landing modules are some of the Socialist Realism artworks and propaganda created around the Cosmonauts. One of the most iconic cosmonauts, and a hero of mine, the first woman in space Valentina Tereschkova is well represented here, with some of her actual space suits. Models of the Soviet moon landing modules and rovers are seen too, missions abandoned after the Apollo astronauts got there first.

An actual Orion M Suit from about 2000,
which has been on 12 extra-vehicular walks in space

Base module table from Mir space station, containing food and drink

From the modern era we have equipment from the Mir space station, which was in action from 1986, through my teenage years when I was right into all this stuff. Mir meaning peace, seemed to show a way to use space for peace and science, as opposed to Reagan's Star Wars fantasies of missile-destroying laser satellites. The exhibition on Mir captures the history of the end of the Soviet Union, as the cosmonauts launched as Soviets in 1991 and came down to earth as Russians in 1992. 

This was an exhibition that thrilled and excited me, as someone who grew up loving this stuff. As a youth I was in Moscow in 1985 and the space exhibitions which I saw then still stick in my mind. At that time it was clear that the local people were very proud of their accomplishments in space, and one man gave me a badge (of a Soviet postage stamp) with two cosmonauts on it, which I love. On that visit I was thrilled to see the "Monument to the Conquerers of Space" statue which was near to my hotel in the "Park of Economic Achievements" as it was known then. The "All Russia Exhibition Centre" as the park is now known just doesn't have the same ring to it. This titanium clad monument of a rocket and its contrail stands 110 metres high, with figures from the Soviet space age depicted on the plinth. Yuri Gagarin is there and out front is a statue of Tsiolkovsky whose early work is well represented in the Science Museum exhibition.

When I went to Moscow with my family 10 years ago the park was a bit shabby, although I understand it has been renovated since. My children were clambering over this glorious monument, staring up to the rocket and to Yuri Gagarin, as many Russian children must have done before them. 


Monument to the Conquerors of Space, Moscow

Two of my children clambering about on the
Monument to the Conquerors of Space, Moscow 10 years ago

Also in the park, between exhibitions on mammoths and the wheat harvest, was a Soyuz rocket, the carrier rocket that to this day still takes crews and supplies to the International Space Station.

Soyuz rocket in Moscow
So for me the Cosmonaut exhibition re-awakened all of my youthful enthusiasm for space exploration. My (now 16 year old) son also enjoyed it so it is not just for nostalgia that it is notable. The bravery and excitement of the early space pioneers shines through in the exhibition. Just as it is easy to get blasé about computers, the same is true about space exploration as we watch astronauts on Youtube playing in weightlessness today. Space exploration has always been a technology test-bed, and even if the eventual benefits are tangential, we all benefit from it. 


Postscript - London's Public Transport Doesn't Work

In recent years, each time I travel within London by public transport it all goes pear-shaped. Yet again we made the mistake of believing that we could make our way between two points 20 miles apart in the capital in under 2 and a half hours by public transport. What naive fools we were. Surely this must drive anyone living in London to despair. London seems to function more as a clump of overlapping, but not very well connected towns, rather than as a coherent whole. Each time it is a different problem: lines shut for repairs, replacement buses that get lost and attempt three point turns on side streets, signalling problems, "passenger incidents". Londoners, why aren't you all up in arms about this? Nowhere else in the world have I found getting from A to B so unnecessarily difficult.

Battles. Glasgow ABC. October 2015

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Battles. Buke and Gase. Live review. Glasgow ABC. October 2015


Last time that I saw Battles play in Glasgow was in the Arches in about 2011. The intensity of their sound and the sheer volume in those tunnels under Central Station blew me away and left my ears ringing for days afterwards. It was absolutely packed as well, with a lively, sweaty crowd. 

Four years later and touring to promote their latest album "La Di Da Di", the Arches has now closed down and we find ourselves in the more open space of the ABC on Sauchiehall Street. Maybe the space is too big, maybe their latest album isn't generating so much buzz, or maybe it wasn't a great idea to play on the same night as Godspeed You! Black Emperor are playing along the other end of the M8. Whatever the reason, the hall seems to have a bit too much space in it, and the audience remain a bit subdued throughout. 

Battles (and their improbably high cymbal) ABC, Glasgow

Support act Buke & Gase play an excellent, jerky, unpredictable set and start to rouse the crowd. When Battles arrive on stage, Dave Konopka crouches on the floor for 5 or 10 minutes building up loops and rhythms before Ian Williams and John Stanier join him and give us "Dot Net" from the new album. The new album continues their experimental, post-rock/ math-rock/ jazz-rock sound. "Rock" is at the heart of it all though, with the forceful drumming of John Stanier front and centre on stage and in the sound. They batter through some great tunes, all angular and twitchy, but fail get the crowd engaged. Older songs like "Ice Cream" and "Atlas" get the biggest responses of the night, but when the band pause to briefly chat they acknowledge the flat feeling of the evening, asking "Did somebody die in the audience?". Their biggest cheer of the night, as they note themselves, is when they thank Glasgow for giving the world Mogwai.

I've seen them before and know that they are a great live act, but tonight they just seemed a bit flat. I think that was more down to them than to us. 

Belle and Sebastian, Mogwai and friends. Charity Gig, Glasgow

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Child Refugee Crisis Appeal, Save The Children Fundraising Concert, Glasgow. November 2015


With the refugee crisis in Europe making headlines around the world, local band Belle and Sebastian announced that they would perform in Glasgow to raise funds to help. Belle and Sebastian were soon joined in the line up by Jim Kerr and Charlie Burchill (of Simple Minds), Franz Ferdinand, Mogwai, Young Fathers and comedian Josie Long. The point of the concert was to raise money for the Child Refugee Crisis Appeal for Save the Children UK. The gig website stated that 
"Belle and Sebastian, humbly, and with a good will, wish to stand behind the displaced peoples of Syria in their brave attempt to find a better life in Europe. If governments won't help them, then the people must."
If you are able to contribute to the fundraising appeal, there is information on how to do this via the Save The Children website here.

Neil from Save The Children reminding us why we are here

As for the gig itself it seems churlish to review it as a gig, as the whole point of the evening was to raise money and spread goodwill, but it consisted of a lot of great Scottish bands that I've seen already many times over. So for me the whole evening was just a great big treat. Without meaning to, I ended up getting seats in the front row, which was odd. The Armadillo is such a nice, sedate venue with comfy seats, and they let you take glass bottles to your seat. I was overly aware that about the only row of seats that the bands could see from the stage was the one which had me and my brother sitting in it so I was smiling and on best behaviour. It was a line up that required standing up and swaying, but we just sat back and let them entertain us.

Young Fathers

Edinburgh trio Young Fathers opened the evening. They have been outspoken on immigration and refugee issues before. Their current tour is titled "We Are All Migrants" and in 2014 I had seen them perform at a World Refugee Day gig in the Old Fruitmarket. They are a phenomenal live act and this is the fourth or fifth time I have seen them live. As the earliest act, whilst people are still arriving they didn't let that distract them and just battered out their tunes. They got us to make some noise if we agreed that "Glasgow welcomes refugees". We obliged. I really hope that it is true, as I love my city and don't want to view it through rose-tinted spectacles, but I think that we've got a good record on this. I hope the council step up and offer homes to the people desperately needing them just now, who could bring so much to our city.

If you get the chance ever to see Young Fathers live I would encourage you to take it, as they are a phenomenal act.

Josie Long doing a gag about English politics and transport in London

Comedian Josie Long briefly made an appearance as compere. Her 15 minutes was enough to get the stage set for Mogwai. Post-rock behemoths Mogwai have just released an excellent retrospective compilation, "Central Belters", to mark their 20th year and in June played two nights at the Barrowlands to mark the anniversary.

Dominic Aitchison and Stuart Braithwaite of Mogwai

 I love the way that they set up on stage, with a big gap at the middle and the music taking centre stage. They played a barn-storming 45 minutes set, finishing with "Remurdered" from their latest album, Rave Tapes.

Alex Kapranos of Franz Ferdinand

Next up were Franz Ferdinand. They have recently been touring as one half of supergroup FFS, with the Mael brothers of Sparks, on the back of their recent collaborative album. I have seen them performing recently as FFS and previously playing the Barrowlands a few years ago as Franz Ferdinand and they are another great live act. Lead singer Alex Kapranos was the first of two ex-members of Glasgow ska stalwarts The Amphetameanies up on stage tonight. They battered through their hits, raised an arch eyebrow and bid us farewell. Entertaining as always.

Belle and Sebastian giving it laldy

Scottish indie band Belle and Sebastian were the organisers of this whole event. Only a few months ago they had played across the car park from tonight's venue at the Hydro, as part of their ongoing world tour. Maybe it was because I was sat in the front row, but tonight's gig seemed a much more comfortable and homely affair for them. As is their want, they got people up to dance, much to the annoyance of the unnecessarily officious stewards at the venue. Really, is a Belle and Sebastian crowd going to start a riot? Lovely to hear some of the best tracks off of their latest album (Girls In Peacetime Want To Dance) plus a couple from If You're Feeling Sinister (Stars of Track and Field and Judy and the Dream of Horses.) They are always best when they've got a bit of brass backing them up and it was great to see Mick Cooke playing with them again (ex-Amphetameanie).

The Simple Minds/ Belle and Sebastian supergroup

The evening finished with the slightly surreal sight of Jim Kerr and Charlie Burchill (off of Simple Minds) coming onto the stage to sing, with Belle and Sebastian as their backing band. If, like me, you went to school in the west of Scotland in the 1980s Simple Minds were omnipresent. I was too cool to be into them, but if you were ever on one of those new fangled telephone chatlines at that time, a standard opening gambit would be "What bands are you into, I like U2 and Simple Minds?"

Before Jim Kerr and Charlie Burchill performed as Simple Minds, they were seen playing in Glasgow by my mum and dad in about 1977, when they were in punk band Johnny and the Self Abusers. I myself have bizarrely seen them perform twice before. I saw Simple Minds play at Wembley in 1988 when I drove down with my brother to the Nelson Mandela 70th birthday concert and they seemed to play at a fair few things last year at the Glasgow Commonwealth Games, one of which I stumbled upon at the BBC building. Although most of the people dancing down in front of the stage wouldn't have been born when they were released, we got a rendition of Promised You a Miracle and Don't You Forget About Me (as featured in The Breakfast Club). Bonkers end to a fantastic night's entertainment.

Jim Kerr hamming it up in front of the
Save The Children logo (what a pro!)
If you are able to contribute to the fundraising appeal, there is information on how to do so on the Save The Children UK website here.



Votes for Women. Glasgow and the Suffragettes

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Suffragettes of Glasgow and Scotland 


As a schoolchild in Glasgow we learnt about the suffragettes in 'O' Grade history. We learnt of their imprisonment, hunger strikes and release and re-arrest under the "Cat and Mouse Act". Emily Davison and her death whilst running in front of the King's horse at the Derby in 1913, and women being granted the vote in 1918 after World War I were also covered. The recent release of the film Suffragette has brought their campaigning to a new audience, covering pretty much the major points I remember from school. What I was less aware of were the actions of suffragettes in Scotland and Glasgow. 


This was brought home to me on hearing that there is a tree in Glasgow, planted in 1918 to commemorate the struggle these suffragettes. I had not been aware of the "Suffragette Oak" until it won the curious accolade as Scotland's tree of the year 2015.

So I have tried to find out some more about these Scottish women, but discovered that sadly there is surprisingly little information widely available on their activities. It is obviously an area that would benefit from more research and those at the Glasgow Women's Library are one of the teams of people trying to address this.


Early campaigners for the vote in the United Kingdom, such as the Chartists, had many in their ranks campaigning for "universal suffrage", for the rights of all men and women to vote. The Representation of the People Act of 1832 (also called the Great Reform Act) was a disappointment to many when the term "male persons" was specifically included in it. This gradually led to the development of a specific campaign to get women the right to vote, women's suffrage. Organisations such as the National Society for Women's Suffrage, the National Union of Women's Suffrage Societies and the Glasgow and West of Scotland Woman's Suffrage Movement campaigned, organised petitions and held meetings. However as their members saw little progress some women looked to take more militant actions.


There was some political support for their campaigning.The Scottish Labour Party (later becoming the national Independent Labour Party or ILP) founded in 1888 by Keir Hardie, Shaw Maxwell and John Murdoch had "the establishment of universal adult suffrage" as the first item on its programme. When some women members of the ILP felt that its campaigning for women's suffrage was half-hearted, they left to form the Women's Social and Political Union (WSPU). This was founded in Manchester by Emmeline Pankhurst and others in 1903. They opened their first Scottish branch in Glasgow in 1906 at 141 Bath Street in the city centre. From the start their motto was "Deeds, not words". Their aim wasn't just to win votes for women, but by doing so to improve the lives and opportunities for women. 


My grandfather's family were active in the ILP
and this was a card, of Women's Freedom League
founder Charlotte Despard, that he had held onto

There was also the breakaway Women's Freedom League who believed in non-violent protest. One of their founding members was the Edinburgh-born, Anglo-Irish Charlotte Despard. She had previously spent two terms in Holloway Prison but disliked the authoritarian way that Emmeline and Christabel Pankhurst ran the WSPU. She had met Gandhi in 1909 and was impressed with his ideas of "passive resistance". She was also a member of the ILP, knew Keir Hardie and had known Eleanor Marx. In Glasgow they established a tea room and bookshop at 302 Sauchiehall Street, before moving to larger premises at 70 St Georges Road, where the M8 now sits at Charing Cross. They preferred passive resistance such as not paying taxes or even dog licences and refused to participate in the 1911 census. They took up the cry of the American colonies from two centuries earlier "No taxation, without representation".

Anna Munro, organiser of the Women's
Freedom League in Scotland
In Glasgow many organisers of the local WSPU held strongly socialist principles, such as Helen Crawfurd and Janie Allan. Helen Crawfurd spent a month in prison in 1912 for smashing the windows at the premises of Education Minister Jack Pease. She had at least two further spells in prison, going on hunger strike on one occasion. When Janie Allan was arrested in London for smashing windows and sentenced to four months imprisonment, a petition from Glasgow signed by over 10,000 people demanded her release. She went on hunger strike in prison and like many others was brutally force fed whilst in jail.

Dr Marion Gilchrist
When the Glasgow offices of the WSPU opened on Bath Street in 1908 Dr Marion Gilchristmade a speech. She was the first woman in Scotland to qualify from university as a medical doctor, graduating from the University of Glasgow in 1894. She became a general practitioner in the west end of Glasgow and worked also as an eye surgeon at the Victoria Infirmary and the Redlands Hospital for Women. A member of the Glasgow and West of Scotland Women's Suffrage Movement since 1903 she left and joined the WSPU in 1907. She said in her 1908 speech that she now saw... 
"...clearly that nobody has done more for the cause than those militant suffragists. They have been the most heroic and deserve the highest praise. They have brought the question to the public notice and that was what the advocates of women suffrage who had carried on the work quietly for 60 years had failed to do"

Initially the actions of the WSPU were focused on raising awareness of their cause, holding public meetings, selling literature and opening new branches. Much of the activity at this time was towards a major march planned in Edinburgh in October 1909. 

March in Edinburgh for Women's Votes, 1909
Many artists in Glasgow such as Helen Fraser, Jessie Newbery and Ann Macbeth were drawn to the suffragette cause. Jessie Newbery founded the embroidery department at Glasgow School of Art and was married to the art school principal. She was an associate of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Ann Macbeth succeeded her as head of the embroidery department in 1911 and was responsible for creating many of the high quality suffragette banners. She herself was imprisoned and endured solitary confinement and forcible feedings in the name of the cause. Her colleagues at GSA supported her protests. In May 1912, she wrote to the Secretary of the School thanking him for his ’kind letter’. 
"I am still very much less vigorous than I anticipated’, she said,’after a fortnight’s solitary imprisonment with forcible feedings … but the doctor thinks this will improve when I get away"

Like many other women protesters who were force fed, she suffered long-term ill health. She retired to Cumbria, where she continued her design work and her writing.

Ann Macbeth
In March 1912, in Glasgow, Emily Green was arrested for smashing six windows on Sauchiehall Street as protests turned increasingly violent. Attacks in galleries in Glasgow, Edinburgh and London are reported with "a valuable painting" in Kelvingrove Art Gallery being attacked with a hatchet. These actions were reported around the world.

Aug 1909, Boston newspaper report of Glasgow actions of a suffragette

In 1913 Glasgow pillar boxes were attacked with acid by Jessie Stephen, a domestic servant and trade unionist who headed the Domestic Workers' Union. She was never caught for this. She stated afterwards that dressed as a servant nobody paid her any attention as she deposited her acid containing packages. As a working class suffragette and member of the ILP she also apparently enlisted dockers in the ILP to "deal with" hecklers at WSPU meetings. Elsewhere in Scotland suffragettes cut telegraph wires in Dumbarton, Leuchars train station in Fife was burnt to the ground. An attempt was made to burn down the new stand at Kelso racecourse, Lanarkshire and Ayrshire mansions were burnt down, a portrait of the King was slashed at the Royal Academy in Edinburgh and politicians were attacked or heckled throughout the country. Bowling greens in Glasgow had their lawns cut up, the Royal Observatory in Edinburgh was bombed and the marker flags at Balmoral golf course were replaced one night with flags in the WPSU colours of green, white and purple.

WPSU supporters picketing outside Duke Street Prison in Glasgow
Since 1909 imprisoned suffragettes had been going on hunger strike to protest their cause and being force fed whilst imprisoned. This often had severe effects on the health of these women. By 1913 there were increasing numbers of women being arrested for their actions and the authorities struggled to cope with the numbers going on hunger strike. Fearing a death in custody creating a martyr, in 1913 the Liberal government passed the Prisoners Temporary Discharge For Ill-health Act (better known as The Cat and Mouse Act), temporarily releasing prisoners on hunger strike, to re-imprison them when their health improved.

Suffragette protest against the
Cat and Mouse Act
Different prisons in Scotland applied the laws in different ways, with Perth prison having some of the most brutal regimes, with women tied down for days on end and force fed. Arabella Scott, arrested after the fire at Kelso racecourse, endured five weeks of being force fed at Perth Prison after her re-arrest in June 1914 under the Cat and Mouse Act. During this time she was tied to a bed and not allowed to see anyone. Duke Street Prison in Glasgow had a reputation for less severe treatment of their suffragette prisoners with some suggestion that the governess was more sympathetic to their cause, or possibly to their class background. Whatever the reason, one curious artifact which the Glasgow Women's Library possess is an umbrella stand from  the governess's office at the prison. Rescued from a skip when the prison was demolished this was apparently painted in the nearest they could get to the WPSU colours by suffragette prisoners in the jail.

Umbrella stand from Duke Street Prison

Ellison and Margaret Gibb


Assault on Miss Ellison Gibb of Hillhead Glasgow
Beyond these prominent women leading the fight, there were many other lesser lights from around the country taking action and making sacrifices. A pair of Glasgow suffragette sisters that I had never heard of I recently discovered on reading the chess blog of Ilkley Chess Club. 

Ellison Gibb and Margaret Gibb lived at Elliot House, Elliot Street, Hillhead in Glasgow (now 40 Cresswell Street just off Byres Road). Their father was fish merchant Peter Gibb. Their mother, Margaret Skirving Gibb, was the founding member of the Glasgow Ladies Chess Club in 1905. Ellison Gibb was first arrested in 1908 outside 10 Downing Street, and again later on in London for smashing windows. There is a newspaper report of her managing to get into the train compartment next to cabinet minister Winston Churchill on on a Stranraer to Glasgow train in 1912. After haranguing him on the suffragette cause Churchill seems to have lost his temper with her behaviour, and ended their dialogue with "Remove this woman". She was imprisoned several times at Holloway Prison, once for smashing the windows of  Barkers of Kensington and was also on hunger strike whilst in prison. In November 1912 she was imprisoned in Dundee for smashing windows. Afterwards a newspaper recounts (see above) how she was assaulted whilst protesting against the Prime Minister at Ladybank in November 1912. 

Margaret Gibb ("Ann Hunt") in Birmingham Mail, July 1914

Ellison Gibb's younger sister, Margaret Gibb (who also used the alias Ann Hunt), also took up the cudgels for the suffragette cause. In the article above she has been arrested in London for attacking John Millais's portrait of Thomas Carlyle in the the National Portrait Gallery "with a chopper". She is quoted in court unrepentedly as saying
"The picture will have an added value and be of great historical interest because it has been honoured by the attention of a militant"
There is a striking police surveillance photograph of Margaret Gibb on the Museum of London website. It records that she was sentenced to two months in Holloway prison for striking a constable outside the prison with a dog whip.

Margaret Gibb exercising in the yard of Holloway Prison
Their suffragette activities quietened down during the war, but the Ilkley Chess Club blogger tracks the sisters down in later chess matches that they take part in. I do love this report below in the Glasgow Herald of a match played by the Glasgow Ladies Chess Club in 1923 against Paisley Chess Club. "A surprise was in store for the spectators as the ladies were victorious" although the reporter explains away the victory due to a weakened Paisley team, naturally. Both Gibb sisters can be seen to have won their games in this match: from chopping paintings in the National Portrait Gallery, to beating the Paisley men at chess. Well done Margaret Gibb. 



The Campaign Continues


In 1914 the newspapers reported further "Scottish outrages" as the Glasgow Herald put it. Janet Arthur was arrested whilst trying to blow up Burns Cottage in Alloway, Bonnington House in Lanark was completely destroyed by fire. In January 1914 two bombs are placed at the Kibble Palace in Glasgow's Botanic Gardens. Night watchman David Watters discovered a bomb with a burning fuse, which he cut, only to be "stunned" moments later by the blast of another bomb which smashed 27 panes of glass and caused minor damage to some plants. Although nobody was found committing the act, the evidence was clear as the papers report "footprints clearly indicate the high heels of ladies shoes”. Later Helen Crawfurd was arrested in connection with this and sentenced to two years imprisonment, though released after going on hunger strike.

American newspaper report of the incident in January 1914
There were many public meetings held on Glasgow Green for the suffragette cause, often addressed by members of the Pankhurst family on speaking tours. One particular meeting addressed by Emmeline Pankhurst at St Andrews Halls on 9th March 1914 became known as the "battle of Glasgow". At the time the police were trying to re-arrest Mrs Pankhurst under the Cat and Mouse Act and her attendance at the meeting was kept secret, although much anticipated. The front of the stage was decorated with white and purple flowers, which concealed a string of barbed wire and many women at the meeting were apparently armed with clubs, expecting the police to charge the stage. Having smuggled Mrs Pankhurst into the hall past a police cordon outside, as soon as she began to speak the police made their move and 50 police officers who had been in the basement and several plain clothes officers already in the hall charged forwards. A blank was fired from a pistol by one of the women bodyguards present, whilst others revealed the clubs they had concealed about their person or tried to defend Mrs Pankhurst from the police with ju-jitsu that they had been practicing. The actions of the baton-wielding police, at what was a legal meeting, shocked many people and generated publicity for the suffragette cause. The suffragettes also got adverse publicity for their violent response in reports in the Daily Record (which carried the photograph below) and other newspapers. After the meeting 4000 people marched to the Central Police Station to protest. Helen Crawfurd was arrested for attacking police officers who were attempting to arrest the suffragette leader Emily Pankhurst at the public meeting in St. Andrews Halls in Glasgow. Although released later that night without charge, Helen was promptly re-arrested the following night for smashing the windows of the army recruiting offices in Glasgow, and was sentenced to one month's imprisonment in Duke Street prison in Glasgow.

Weapons carried by suffragettes at the meeting in 1914
There was a failed attempt to set fire to the waiting rooms of both platforms of the Shields Road train station in Glasgow and in May 1914 a bomb, which failed to detonate, is discovered under the viaduct bringing water to Glasgow from Loch Katrine.

May 1914


War


In July 1914 war with Germany was declared and the women of Scotland declared a truce with the government, to fight the common enemy. The munitions factories, public transport and farms throughout the land would become largely staffed by women. Women took up roles as nurses and doctors at field hospitals in France, such as Glasgow nurse Agnes Climie, who died when the hospital she was working at in France was bombed by enemy aircraft.

Many suffragettes were also pacifists and opposed the war on principle. Sylvia Pankhurst came to Glasgow to speak at John MacLean's great anti-war demonstrations in the city. Helen Crawfurd held strong anti-war beliefs and turned away from the WSPU and sought new directions for the "women's movement". 

Helen Crawfurd, Oct 1915

Helen's involvement in the WSPU ceased shortly after the outbreak of the first world war because of the pro-war stance of Emily Pankhurst and the WSPU leadership. She became a powerful voice against poverty in the city and for peace. A relentless campaigner, she was secretary of the Glasgow Women’s Housing Association and a key player in the Rent Strikes of 1915, alongside other women such as Mary Barbour. A founder of the Women’s Peace Crusade in Glasgow, Crawfurd was also an associate of John MacLean.

Glasgow Rent Strike 1915

Votes For Women


The women's war effort was acknowledged when the Representation of the People Act 1918 granted women over the age of 30 the vote. A separate act that year also allowed woman to stand for election to Parliament for the first time. A further act in 1928 extended the franchise for women, lowering the age limit to 21, giving women voting equality with men. By the time Lochgelly's Jennie Lee was elected to parliament in 1929 representing the ILP, and becoming the youngest MP in the House of Commons at 24 years of age, she was in the curious position of still being too young to vote. 

Having won the vote, women now had to carry on the fight for their rights, a battle still being waged.


Julia Holter. Gig review, Glasgow November 2015

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Julia Holter at the Hug and Pint, Glasgow. Nov 2015


Julia Holter is a musician, composer, singer from Los Angeles who I first started following as her first album, Tragedy, appealed to me by being unfashionably inspired by Euripides play Hippolytus. The music was as interesting as the concept, full of breathy voices, field recordings, drones mixed with a medieval dreamy atmosphere. Next album had more pop overtones, but in the manner of Laurie Anderson or David Sylvian. A concept album inspired by Collette's novel Gigi (Loud City Song) and now her latest album Have You In My Wilderness have followed. 

She arrived tonight in Glasgow to tour her latest album, as part of a four piece band made up of herself on keyboards and vocals, Dina Maccabee (viola, vocals), Devin Hoff (double bass), and Corey Fogel (drums, vocals).



For me it was also my first chance to take in a gig at The Hug and Pint. I lived around the corner from here for about ten years, when the pub sported a picture of an old car wheel outside and was called The Hub. It then became The Liquid Ship, using the basement for live music several days a week. They now use the same downstairs space that hosted gigs in its former guise as The Liquid Ship, but with some internal walls knocked down to open up the space a bit. It can accommodate 100 people apparently, and tonight's gig was sold out, making it a cosy affair. Upstairs the large kitchen area leaves a small bar squished into one corner. The food is described as "vegan Far Eastern" and if that is the cuisine that you have been waiting for, then this is the place for you.

First up was Danish singer-songwriter Søren Juul, an indie Jean Michel Jarre. When Julia Holter arrived on stage the start of her set was disrupted a bit by a dodgy microphone and she appeared a bit frazzled, bemoaning being cooped up in a van for 9 hours today, and not being able to get into the toilet to get herslf ready. This is the second time that I have seen her play in Glasgow, she played the CCA a couple of years ago. On both occasions she completed the venue on their LA-style food (or maybe LA on its Glasgow-style food?) Once she warmed up the show ticked along nicely, jazz-tinged electronic pop introduced with a smirk and some droll comments. With a 50:50 mixture of tracks from the new album and some older material the songs varied from baroque harmonies to ones with jaunty whistling. Finishing the main set with a quiet ending and bowed head, someone's perfectly timed phone gave us a Dom Joly ringtone, and raised another smirk.




With the likes of Ela Orleans, Joanna Newsom, Holly Herndon, Grimes, Zola Jesus, FKA twigs, Lykke Li, etc. it is clear that women are currently making some of the most interesting and cerebral music around.


The Glasgow Poorhouses

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The Workhouses, or Poorhouses of Glasgow


As Christmas approaches and we dust off Dickens's book A Christmas Carol for another read, I was left reflecting on what the arrangements in Glasgow were with regards to the workhouse, or as they were more commonly called in Scotland, the Poorhouse or Poor's Houses. Dickens wrote A Christmas Carol in 1843 and in it the themes he often comes back to are to the fore, particularly the need to provide for children in poverty, and the risks of them lacking education and falling into a life of crime. When the Ghost of Christmas Present shows Scrooge the two children huddled beneath his robe he tells him
"The boy is Ignorance. This girl is Want. Beware them both, and all of their degree, but most of all beware this boy, for on his brow I see that written which is Doom, unless the writing be erased"
The ghost throws back Scrooge's own words at him, as he earlier had ignored or failed to see the suffering of his fellow man. When he asks the ghost if they have no resources or refuge the ghost replies
"'Are there no prisons' said the spirit turning on him for the last time with his own words. 'Are there no workhouses'" 

The Deserving and Undeserving Poor 


With Scotland having a separate legal system from the rest of the UK, our arrangements were slightly different from those of the Dickensian workhouses of London and Manchester. Some of the earliest Scottish Laws on poor relief were focused on a theme which the Conservative Party of today still seems to be putting at the centre of their policies, dividing people into the deserving and undeserving poor. A 1424 Act of the Scottish Parliament distinguished between able-bodied beggars and those not physically able to work for their living. The latter could be given a token by authorities allowing them to beg, whilst those deemed to be able-bodied beggars could be arrested and given 40 days to find work or face imprisonment. This seems rather chillingly like Ian Duncan Smith's benefits regime.

The liability of each parish to look after their "deserving poor" was made more formal in an Act of 1535. At this time Glasgow was a town of only 3000 people. Each parish had to now make collections to support their own elderly and infirm poor residents. The 1579 Act For The Punischment of Strang and Idle Beggars, and Reliefe of the Pure and Impotent and a further Act 20 years later shifted responsibility for poor relief to the churches. They could raise money from donations, collections, fees and rents and support those deemed powerless to help themselves. The "aged, impotent and pure people should have lodging and abiding places". The "strong beggars and their bairns" should be employed in "common work". The children of beggars could be taken by land-owners to do unpaid work until the age of 18 for girls and 24 for boys. Unpaid work in return for meagre support was a tool used later in the poorhouses too, and again, sadly, has been revived in our current system.

Town's Hospital and Poorhouse


By 1672 the idea of forcing the poor to work in order to live was stiffened with an Act which made magistrates build "correction houses" or workhouses where beggars could be detained and made to work. The Act of Union of 1707 joins Scotland to England but the Scottish legal system remains separate from the English system. Glasgow now had a population of around 15,000 people and was mainly centred around the High Street and cathedral area. In 1726 Daniel Defoe visited the city and described it as
"The cleanest and best-built city in Britain."
At this time 400 students were attending the University of Glasgow on the High Street, a university which was almost 300 years old by this time. In 1756 James Watt would be working here when he develped his ideas for the steam engine. During this period Tennents open a new brewery in the city, the Foulis brothers begin printing here and John Smith's bookshop opens. In 1731 it is decided that a workhouse is to be founded in the city. Known as the Town's Hospital and Poorhouse it was built on the north bank of the River Clyde, near to where Ropework Lane meets Clyde Street today. St Andrews Cathedral was built at a site west of it in 1816.

The Town's Hospital and Poorhouse in Glasgow was sited
 just to the right of St Andrews Cathedral in this photo

Map from the 1700s showing location of the Town's Hospital on the Clydeside (click to expand)
Managed by directors representing in equal parts the local church parishes, the Trades Guild, the Merchants Guild and the elected town council it was designed to "aliment and educate upwards of 152 men, widows and orphans of the city". An infirmary block was later added at the rear with basement accommodation "for lunatics". A year after opening there were 60 old people and 91 children living here.

Town's Hospital, Glasgow
A later director of the Town's Hospital, Robert McNair, is credited with trying to improve the lot of the "insane folk" accommodated here. After he had raised the funding, a new "Glasgow Asylum for Lunatics" was built from 1810 and opened four years later. An 1888 book on Glasgow medical institutions reports that
"the heart of this good man was touched by the wretched condition of the insane folk, who at the beginning of the century, whatever their social condition, were kept in "the cells" at the Poorhouse at the banks of the Clyde; and, as improvement of the cells was impossible, he determined to procure for them better care and treatment elsewhere"

1845 Scottish Poor Law Act


A Commission of Enquiry established in 1843 into the poor relief system in Scotland found that relief organised at a parish level was being provided mainly to the ill, the physically and mentally infirm and the elderly. This report led to the 1845 Scottish Poor Law Act which maintained this organisational arrangement and introduced a new tier of supervision. Unlike the act in England, in Scotland the act allowed that relief could be given as cash or in kind. A poorhouse could be set up to shelter the sick and destitute, but those deemed able-bodied were excluded. After the new Act of 1845 provision of poor relief in Glasgow was divided into four parishes: City, Barony, Govan and Gorbals.

  • City

In 1841 the Glasgow Asylum for Lunatics was requiring more space, no longer able to expand in the rapidly growing city. They chose a new site, three miles west of the city, and built a new hospital which opened in 1843 as the Royal Asylum at Gartnavel. This consisted of "two separate houses, for the higher and lower class of patients respectively".

The Town's Hospital on the Clydeside was closed in 1845 and the city poorhouse was relocated to the vacated Glasgow Asylum building in the city centre. This became known as The Glasgow City Poorhouse (although as is always the way, it was also known to many still as the Town's Hospital). This meant that the City Poorhouse now had 1500 beds and was one of the largest institutions in Britain. Although it offered food and shelter for those with nowhere else to go, living conditions were maintained at a level that discouraged all but the most desperate. Anyone with living family was expected to seek support from them firstly. Males and females were separated, children were separated from their parents. Reports in the 1880s criticised the poor sanitation and the overcrowding at the institution. One report found that the 290 male residents shared just two baths to take their weekly bath, a process that took 12 hours to complete. You really wouldn't want to be near the end of the queue, would you? Disability of some type, mental or physical, was usually a requirement for admission to these institutions, so they were fitted with infirmary wings and a degree of medical support.

1882 Glasgow map showing location of the City Poorhouse (click to expand)
The City Poorhouse was on the north side of Parliamentary Road, which no longer exists. The alignment of roads around here has changed quite a bit, but this site, south-west of Dobbies Loan, is now roughly where Glasgow Caledonian University sits.

Glasgow Caledonian University now occupies
the site of the Glasgow City Poorhouse

  • Barony

The Barony parish of Glasgow was one of the most densely populated, although the City area had more prevalent poverty. It was located to the north and east of the city centre. Extending over an area of 14 square miles it had a population of almost 300,000 in 1845. In 1853 the poor board built Barnhill Poorhouse in Springburn which had beds for 160 people. It had hospital facilities on the site, which were extended in time with a nearby hospital built, which later was developed to become Stobhill Hospital. A report in 1885 at Barnhill Poorhouse found that
"The women in the washhouse still receive tea and bread in addition to class C diet - an unnecessary, and in some respects mischievous indulgence"
Able-bodied inmates here were obliged to make up to 350 bundles of firewood per day, or break 5cwt. of stones per day. Those not achieving this were put in solitary confinement and given a bread and water diet.

Site of Barnhill Poorhouse, Springburn (click to expand)
Under the 1845 Act, like other parishes, Barony was obliged to provide care and treatment for "lunatics" (as these people were called at the time). As they were no longer able to accommodate the increasing numbers requiring treatment in Barnhill Poorhouse, in 1871 Barony parish bought land at Woodilee, near Lenzie to build Barony Parochial Asylum, later known as Woodilee Hospital.

Plans for Woodilee Hospital, Lenzie (click to expand)

  • Govan and Gorbals
The Gorbals as an area with high deprivation struggled to raise adequate funds for poor relief and never established a poorhouse. In 1873 it was combined with Govan parish for this purpose. Prior to this they had been accommodating some of the poor of the Gorbals in Govan Poorhouse, which was built in 1852. This lay on the west side of Eglington Street, on the site of the former cavalry barracks, which lies roughly underneath the M74 extension now. Prior to that Govan had a poorhouse on Dale Street (now Tradeston Street). With demand rising a new site was found in Merryflatts. Built between 1867-1872 this consisted initially of a poorhouse, a hospital for 240 beds for medical, surgical and obstetric cases and a lunatic asylum for 180 people. As in other poorhouses the nurses were often unpaid and selected from the female residents of the poorhouse.

1912 map showing site of Govan Poorhouse (click to expand)
The map above shows the lay out of the Govan Poorhouse and asylum, which later was to become the Southern General Hospital. From 1902 major extensions added space for 700 more beds at Govan Poorhouse and in 1912 Govan became part of the Glasgow parish. In recent years the old wards at the Southern General Hospital have finally been closed down, with the building of the (so-called) Queen Elizabeth University Hospital here. The main poorhouse building can still be seen on the eastern side of the new hospital site.

Govan Poorhouse, Glasgow, with male and female wings either side of the central entrance.
Later it became the Southern General Hospital

New Queen Elizabeth University Hospital looming over the
old poorhouse/ Southern General wards

With the new hospital now open, most of the old buildings are being demolished
The excellent workhouses.org.uk website have trawled the 1881 census to find the names, ages and occupations of the residents of all the Glasgow poorhouses in that year. Follow the link here to see the names of the Govan Poorhouse inmates that year.

The 20th Century


In 1898 the City and Barony parishes merged to pull their resources. The new single poor law authority of Glasgow commissioned the building of three new establishments: Stobhill Hospital, The Eastern District Hospital and the Western District Hospital . In 1905 the City Poorhouse was closed and residents transferred to Barnhill Poorhouse. The hospital accommodation was now separate from the poorhouse facilities. In 1912 the Govan parish was also merged with Glasgow. 

Stobhill Hospital was the largest of the new poor law hospitals, with nearly 1800 beds, 200 of which were for the management of patients with psychiatric problems. It consisted of 28 two-storey red brick blocks, many of which were linked by corridors over time. It was used to treat the chronically ill, needy children and the residents of the City and Barony areas with tuberculosis. Stobhill Hospital was used during the First World War for wounded servicemen, who arrived by train on a specially built platform in the hospital grounds. 

Stobhill Hospital today, with its B-listed clock tower
There are still psychiatric wards at Stobhill Hospital today, and day care and out-patient facilities. The rest of the  in-patient services have been transferred to other Glasgow hospitals.

The smaller Western District Hospital built from 1902-04 was also known as Oakbank Hospital. It was used for the treatment of acute medical and surgical cases. They also had a labour suite. It has now been demolished but lay at Garscube Cross, on a triangle of land between Possil Road, Garscube Road and the Forth and Clyde Canal. 

Oakbank Hospital, Glasgow
It too was used by the military during the First World War. Bizarrely Muhammad Ali seems to have visited patients in Oakbank Hospital and signed autographs whilst he was in Glasgow in 1965 (then named Cassius Clay). It was closed in 1971 and demolished. This bit of land contains some shabby, modern industrial units now, some of them derelict. 

Site today of the old Western District Hospital / Oakbank Hospital 
Built at the same time was the Eastern District Hospital, usually referred to as Duke Street Hospital. It's grand sandstone entrance block on Duke Street is all that remains, most of the rest of the hospital site now being a car park for a branch of Lidl. When it opened in 1904 it was a 240 bed hospital, with some beds specifically for psychiatric assessment. 

1912 map showing site of Eastern District Hospital on Duke Street (click to expand)
On the left, the remaining block of Duke Street Hospital 
All of these poor law hospitals came under control of the municipal authorities in 1930, and were incorporated into the National Health Service, when it was formed in 1948. All services at Duke Street Hospital finally came to an end in 1996. 

Requesting Poor Relief


The Mitchell Library in Glasgow has the records of all those who made a claim from the city under the Poor Law. I recently went there to look for any of my ancestors who had got into a position of having to claim poor relief. The records kept here show that the enquiries made into their claims went into a great deal of detail at times. They tried to establish the circumstances of the individual, and sought a lot of detail about family members, parentage, marriage and the income of relatives. To undertake a search here look for the names that you are interested in on the computers of the library's archive department on the 5th floor. The archivists can then retrieve the records of the individual's application for you to read. 

I looked up the records on four of my relatives and on only one case were they judged to merit any assistance. The first relative that I found, Johanna, was 23 years old in 1891 when she was requesting help, as she had no means to support herself and her 1 year old son. The interview recorded that her husband had left her 2 weeks before and she had left Kilmarnock to reside with her parents in Govan. She was refused any relief on the grounds that she "Left husband". No matter the details of her situation, she was still expected to be supported by him or her parents.

Her family situation obviously did not improve as 19 years later in 1910 her son John, living with her in a flat in Ibrox, made a claim for poor relief. His claim was also rejected, as they found that a year previously he had been resident in Kyle Union Poorhouse in Ayr. It was therefore deemed that poorhouse liability for him lay with Ayr and he was advised to seek their support. 

Next I looked at a claim by a 75 year old relative of mine in 1905. Margaret was living in Balshagray Avenue. Her husband had died 5 years earlier in the asylum in Ayr. Despite her age, the interview recorded her parents' occupations and the occupations of her deceased husband and of his parents. Fleshers, pithead enginemen and carriers, their job titles evoke the times they lived in. Her children and their occupations were documented too and her claim rejected as she was expected to seek support from her nearest son, who lived and worked in Lenzie. 

Lastly I looked at the claim for support from William, aged 31, in November 1923. He was a "furniture packer" who it was reported, without much detail, had been unable to work for five weeks. His father, an engineer was dead and he was living with his mother, who had no other support, on Delburn Street, Parkhead. It was noted that he had been in the army for three and a half years (during the First World War) and when working was earning 20 shillings a week. He was granted 8 shillings a week but also referred to the Eastern District Hospital. A copy of a letter by the doctor who assessed him at the Eastern District Hospital was included in the file. In this brief letter which led to his detention in hospital, the doctor who signs it declares that "William...., is mental and is requiring hospital treatment." Not really the way doctors would describe someone today I hope, and no further details of William's illness are recorded.

Detained in 1923 for psychiatric treatment
He was treated in the Eastern District Hospital (Duke Street Hospital) for four weeks, before being transferred on Boxing Day 1923 to Woodilee Hospital. He was detained there for five more months before being released in May 1924, the case closed with the single word "Recovered". It is impossible to know what led to his illness, whether it was due to his war service or to other problems that he had, but these cases illustrate the hoops that people without means had to jump through to get help. 

I would like to say that we live in more enlightened times, but sadly reading about this and the way the poor were assessed and judged over the past 500 years does seem uncomfortably close to the language and system which we have in place today. Scrooge today can walk past those asking that we help the poor and demand
"Are there no foodbanks? Are there no fitness for work tests?"



NB. Can I heartily recommend that if you want to find out about old Glasgow hospitals a great place to start would be to read "The Medical Institutions of Glasgow. A Handbook" written in 1888, which is reproduced here

Partick Thistle, Putting Art Into Football.

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Partick Thistle's reputation as the most artistic football team in Scotland got a boost this year with the arrival of our new mascot Kingsley, designed by artist David Shrigley. Although it is a lazy cliché to deride Partick Thistle as the team for BBC luvvies and students to follow, I think that they are the perfect team to combine art and football. From Kris Doolan's cultured left foot to artist-created free giveaways, Partick Thistle are bringing artistry to our corner of Maryhill.

Glasgow and Art


It is often noted that one way in which Glasgow has adapted to the loss of much of its previously monumental manufacturing industry is with a flourishing arts scene. It is now 25 years since Glasgow became the 1990 European City of Culture, following Athens, Florence, Amsterdam, Berlin and Paris to the title. At the time there were some voices, such as James Kelman and others organised as "Workers City", opposing the re-branding of Glasgow as a "merchants' city". Many felt local, and particularly workers' voices weren't being heard in this jamboree.

Glasgow's motto of 25 years ago and Partick Thistle's
Kingsley mascot of today, created by artist David Shrigley
Since then Glasgow has built a genuine reputation as a creative place to live and work for writers, comedians, artists, musicians, actors, comic book writers and other creative types. Visual art is an area where Glasgow has produced many of the most prominent artists working in Britain today, and for many years has made the annual Turner Prize, which was presented this year in the city, a virtual who's who of Glaswegian artists. Since 2006 Glasgow School of Art has produced five Turner Prize winners and 30% of the nominees. However much of this seems to have been achieved through the efforts of individuals rather than by any major outside support or funding.

Glasgow artist Jim Lambie, creator of Barrowland Park.
 Apparently no relation to John Lambie of Partick Thistle

Common Weal and Art


Many people involved in the creative arts in Scotland were very prominent during the recent independence referendum debate, such as through the National Collective, often offering a less party-political, less partisan voice. They were generally trying to make people think about what type of Scotland they imagined they wanted to live in. The Common Weal organisation also emerged during the referendum campaign, and they continue to campaign. Their stated goals include achieving social and economic equality in our country and promoting a vibrant community and cultural life. They hope to encourage debate in the forthcoming Scottish parliamentary elections to be about positive ideas and concrete plans, rather than the often playground "he-said-she-said" debate we are at risk of getting. To this end they have recently published a short "Book of Ideas". This contains 101 ideas that they believe could shape Scotland's future in a positive way. As well as ideas in areas such as taxation, deconsumerisation and land ownership, they include ideas such as allowing fan ownership of football clubs (also a policy of the Scottish Green Party).

As the arts and culture enrich our lives they suggest ways to support the production of art and to support artists. Too often art is viewed as elitist, or something purely to make profits, to be drive by the market. As well as creating more art, they also want to generate more audiences, by introducing people to galleries, getting schoolchildren go to theatres and concert halls often, so that we all know our way around these places. I think we all gain from this, whether it is by finding out that you enjoy speedway racing at Ashfield, paintings by Whistler in the Hunterian Gallery, an open mic spot in the basement of a local pub or free tickets to a concert by the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra. Unless you know how to join in, and can afford it, you won't get the chance. It is really the main reason that I started writing a blog (such as this one recently on local galleries), because there is loads of good stuff out there that people would love but they don't always know how to access it.

Adrian Wisniewski designed poster for Common Weal

Partick Thistle, Art and Me


Inevitably Partick Thistle Football Club are sometimes described as Glasgow's "other club", as they are regularly overshadowed by the ugly sisters that they share the city with. However, I am not a fan of that term as it does a disservice to Queen's Park FC and Clyde FC. When I started going to watch football regularly these two teams, along with Partick Thistle, were the opposition for Rangers and Celtic in, among other things, the annual Glasgow Cup.

Programme from 1991 Glasgow Cup final

Being different in a city where many fans have very partisan loyalties to their team, Partick Thistle have often been portrayed as the "Glasgow alternative". With the proximity of Firhill Stadium to Glasgow University and the old BBC premises, a perennial joke of satirists (such as the Paisley Panda) has been to mock Thistle for having a big following of luvvies and students. With a nod to the absence of religious sectarianism at Firhill it has also been said by someone that Thistle "were the atheist's team. You couldn't believe in God and support Partick Thistle".

In the late 1970s when I lived in Maryhill and was at primary school, my brother and me got taken along to Firhill by my parents and we have continued going ever since, through all the ups and downs that has entailed. We also got taken to Kelvingrove Art Galleries regularly and to other galleries, and again I have kept on going back ever since. In the 1970s my mum was working in the cafe at the Third Eye Centre (now the CCA). Due to their laid back attitude as employers, summer holiday child care problems were solved by my brother and me getting to run about in the Third Eye Centre all day (we helped out refilling the coffee filter machine occasionally and got a wage packet of 50p per week). This made it a normal place we just played in, my brother kicking rows of sawdust about one day which had been laid out in one of the galleries, not realising that it was a carefully crafted work of art (we sorted it out, nobody noticed). If you know that it is alright when you are aged seven to not like a rotting bunch of bananas in a long wooden box (another exhibit that sticks in my mind), then you realise that when you are forty it is still alright to turn your nose up at stuff that you don't like. I just think more people need to get the chance to see more art, to see what they do and don't like.

One of my children has become a big fan of street art, often found giggling over a book of Banksy's work that we have. Another favourite book of his is one by David Shrigley, whose cranky humour appeals to him. On holiday in Paris a few years ago after we spotted some street art by local boy "Invader" on a wall there, we spent most of the rest of our trip trying to spot more of his stuff. It became quite competitive after a while. Basically it is all around you, if you get to notice it.

What about art and football? I was too young to bear witness to the artistry of Alan Hansen's nascent career in Maryhill, the 1971 League Cup winners or Alan Rough's perms. The first person that to me linked the words "artist" and "football" was probably Bobby Law. There are many great examples of football and art merging. You could maybe think of Roy of The Rovers, films such as Gregory's GirlIan MacMillan becoming "poet in residence" at Barnsley FC. What about Willie Rodger's great footballing linocuts?

Penalty by Willie Rodger

A memorable coming together of football and art is found in the film by Glasgow-born Turner Prize winning artist Douglas GordonZidane. Filmed in real time with all the cameras focused on the French superstar and with a soundtrack by the superb Mogwai, the film shows that 90 minutes of football can have all the drama of a Shakespearean play. On a memorable evening two years ago the band performed the score live at an outdoor showing of the film in Glasgow. Football and art, clearly natural bedfellows.

Zinedine Zidane, Douglas Gordon and Mogwai's Stuart Braithwaite

Partick Thistle and Art


At the start of this season Partick Thistle Football Club caught most people by surprise when they announced that Partick Thistle fan and artist David Shrigley had introduced US investment firm Kingsford Capital Management to his local team. Kingsford Capital's manager, Mike Wilkins is a supporter of modern art and a fan of David Shrigley's work. This led to him commissioning Shrigley to design a new company logo for Kingsford Capital which, with his sponsorship of the team, became Thistle's new mascot. One important thing this deal brought to the club was money. But alongside that, when the mascot which David Shrigley designed was unveiled, Partick Thistle became a twitter sensation overnight. We had more media attention that week than in the previous 12 months, such as this article in the Guardian newspaper and news features around the globe.

Kingsley and Partick Thistle fans in the Guardian newspaper
Partick Thistle's finances have always been shaky to say the least, but the imaginative way that they have worked with a local artist (of international renown) has shown the positive results that can come from art and culture working alongside other sectors of society. A big part of the successful cultural atmosphere of the city has been artists in different fields collaborating with each other, and Kingsley is the kind of thing that you can end up with. The Kingsley mascot is only one of several artistic connections made by Partick Thistle this year.

  • Rogue One

In the close season the brick wall behind the city end of the ground was given a fresh lick of paint by Glasgow graffiti artist Rogue One. I have written about some of his work in the city before, and since painting this at Firhill he has been busy completing the murals outside the re-opened Clutha Bar, among other things. I like "street art", as it tends to be called, and it has gained a higher prominence with the popularity of Banksy and his ilk. It is public art, and it takes art away from the buying and selling end of things (unless you are Banksy, as people rip bits of wall apart which he has daubed on, to sell on for thousands of pounds). A person gets paid for doing their work, we end up with a bit of, transient, public art. Everybody wins.

Mural by Rogue One at Firhill

Commissioning an artist to paint a gable-end is not a new idea. Here is a short clip of John Byrne talking to STV in 1974 about the mural he painted on a wall in Crawford Street in Partick (on a now demolished building). You don't see interviewers and interviewees smoking together on TV very often these days, do you?

Whether you like a particular mural or not, it is up there for everyone to see and everyone can have an opinion.

  • David Shrigley

David Shrigley came to Glasgow to study at Glasgow School of Art in 1988. Whilst in the city, like the sensible chap he is, he started following Partick Thistle which is the reason that I get to write this piece today. He has in his time painted, drawn, produced designs for festival T-shirts, pop videos, newspaper cartoons, sculpture, photography and made much music. His 2014 album with Falkirk's Malcolm Middleton, Words and Music, is one of the most entertainingly foul-mouthed pieces of music that you will hear. (Middleton's 2007 album Brighter Beat has a photograph by David Shrigley on the cover).

David Shrigley and a Really Good thumbs up

In 2013 he was a Turner Prize finalist and his sculpture, Really Good, a giant thumbs up, will soon grace the empty fourth plinth in Trafalgar Square. With the design for Kingsley he is clearly at the top of his game.

David Shrigley's comment on twitter on the evening
that the UK parliament voted to bomb Syria

  • Barry McGee

When Kingsford Capital arrived as sponsors at Partick Thistle they promised a series of limited edition, artist created giveaways. The first of these came at our home game in October against Dundee United. Mike Wilkins of Kingsford Capital had commissioned American graffiti artist and painter Barry McGee to create a design for 2000 footballs, which were handed out to fans as they came into the ground. 

Free Barry McGee balls at Firhill
Barry McGee artwork meets Glasgow pies
These were immediately used exactly as the creator must have imagined, either worn as a hat or as a handy dish for a Saturday afternoon pie. Barry McGee started off in San Francisco as a graffiti artist but his work can now be found in many galleries, and did once adorn a design for Adidas trainers. He has also exhibited at the prestigious Venice Biennale, which led to his street art gaining in value and being largely scavenged from walls. A quick search on the internet reveals that he has previously filled galleries with abstract murals of patterned tiled designs and returns often to painting a series of downtrodden looking, cartoonish characters.

Barry McGee exhibition
These features are what made it onto the footballs that were handed out at Firhill, largely in our red, yellow and black colours. After putting a photo of the ball that I collected that day on Twitter I was twice asked online if I would sell it, but as my children have enjoyed kicking it about in the park, I think I will hang onto it.

One of Barry McGee's balls

  • Jon Rubin

In a further link up with Kingsford Capital, Pittsburgh-based artist Jon Rubin has designed a scarf, which was to be given away to fans at our December game against Motherwell. When the rain led to the postponement of that game, the 2000 scarves will now be handed out before the home game against Ross County.

Partick Thistle players Freddie Frans and
David Amoo show off the Jon Rubin designed scarves

Jon Rubin's works have largely been public pieces, but he is also a professor at Carnegie Mellon University. He was one of the creators of "Conflict Kitchen" in Pittsburgh, a take-away which only serves food from countries in conflict with America, focusing on one country at a time. Their website says that they are selling the food of Iran at present, but it looks like they will be moving on to Syria soon. A concept which unfortunately offers plenty of options for culinary variety. He has previously set up a radio station in an abandoned neighbourhood, playing only the sound of an extinct bird (which to be fair sounds right up my street). He is quoted on the Thistle website as saying
"I’m a huge sports fan myself, so I was excited to be asked to participate. After doing a lot of research, Partick Thistle is the exact type of team that I tend to root for—the scrappy underdog punching above their weight."
On one side it proclaims "We Are Thistle", the reverse of his scarf has the bemusing "You don't know who you are" in bold red and yellow. Rubin apparently came across an online audio archive of Thistle fans chanting this. The existential confusion of it appealed to him.


Ironically, as our coverage in results websites, newspapers and television this year has consisted of an endless succession of wrongly identified players or Thistle being called "Partick", it is clear that many covering football are just not making any effort to actually find out who WE are. Very bloody frustrating.


To me it seems that Partick Thistle and art are a good fit, but then again I would say that art is a good fit with all aspects of life. Unfortunately the Scottish Government do not see art budgets as a priority and arts organisations will face significant cuts as a result of last week's Scottish Budget. These cuts run the risk of making art in Scotland more elitist and less of a career opportunity for those who cannot fund themselves. On top of this, with the cuts to council budgets, it is a sure thing that more cuts to local organisations are going to come on top of those already announced. Regardless of this, art of one form or another either on or off of the field, will continue to flourish at Firhill. 

Now that Partick Thistle have given out artist produced scarves and footballs I am scratching my head to think what the next free give away could be (if there are to be any more). Maybe we need a Thistle bonnet, with some sort of message on it?


Scottish Opera - The Devil Inside

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Review - The Devil Inside. Scottish Opera and Music Theatre Wales. January 2016


Last night was the premiere at the Theatre Royal Glasgow, of The Devil Inside, a co-production by Scottish Opera and Music Theatre of Wales. Although the name suggests an opera based upon the works of INXS, it is in fact adapted from a short story by Robert Louis Stevenson

An adaption of "The Bottle Imp" story
 in Classics Illustrated

The author of Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde wrote the short story "The Bottle Imp" whilst living in Samoa, firstly for a Polynesian audience. Written in English it was first seen in a Samoan translation in 1891, published two years later in English in the collectionIslands' Nights Entertainments. The original story, featuring an Hawaiian sailor who buys a bottle containing an evil imp, has been adapted by author Louise Welsh, who wrote the libretto (opera text) for this production. The music is by Scottish composer Stuart MacRae, a contemporary score which is as jarring and unsettling as the story it tells, a good fit.

Louise Welsh as an author can tell tales which start off in a familiar world, then quickly develop into a dystopian Gothic horror. Her last book that I read, A Lovely Way To Burn, has the host of a TV shopping channel heading out on a date at the start, and wandering through a post-apocalyptic world of a viral pandemic by the end. 


The Devil Inside is performed with a 14 piece ensemble of musicians (partly a practical imperative as the opera will be touring venues of various size after being performed in Glasgow). Stevenson's story has been brought into the modern world. A cast of four performers (plus an almost ninja-like stage crew) tell the story. Ben McAteer and Nicholas Sharratt are young men trekking through mountains when they shelter in a mansion. It is home to a troubled old man (Steven Page) who tells them he got his fortune from an imp in a bottle, which can grant your every wish. However there is a price to pay. If you die in possession of the bottle your soul is condemned to eternal damnation, and the bottle can only be passed on by being sold for less than you paid for it. The price is getting low already and starts to fall further.

A simple but effective staging uses shadow theatre. This can conjure up a contemporary world, with the modern cityscape of the young man's wished for property empire, whilst recalling the Gothic terror of the shadowy figure from the film Nosferatu. 

Count Orlok from Nosferatu
The story batters along and the acting by all on stage is excellent. Any happiness gained through the imp in the bottle is tarnished by it, and when one of the young men finds love with Catherine, played by Rachel Kelly, illness threatens to ruin their happiness. Clever changes like this from the leprosy Stevenson's sailor developed in the original story all work well in this telling. Temptation brings them to seek out the bottle imp again. The story and acting conveys the addiction of those using the bottle, despite the harmful effects that they see (cf. alcohol, drugs, gambling). It affects all of them in different ways which reflects their personalities and a Rorschach inkblot hangs over them, a test used to assess personality traits. 

I sometimes struggle a bit with operas sung in English, it just sounds more musical to my ear when you are not listening to the meaning of the words, and just let them wash over you as sounds. So this text, sung in English obviously, has that problem for me. At times it felt like a good play that they were singing to each other. However as the story moved on the music and atmosphere became more immersive and the ambiguities in the ending which the story has been given, gave it a great punchy finale. 

Well played, well written. Imaginative and absorbing. I was left thinking it through after going home, greedy for more.

Celtic Connections 2016

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Gareth Dickson. Kathryn Joseph. The Mackintosh Church, Queen’s Cross. 24th January


Rachel Sermanni. John Grant. Glasgow Royal Concert Hall. 26th January


Celtic Connections started out as a festival to get bums on seats at the concert hall during the lean winter months after Christmas. It has now grown to become one of Glasgow’s busiest periods of music performance. I am not entirely sure what it is trying to be. It is frequently hard to see any coherent theme or any Celtic connections with the acts. Nevertheless it brings an eclectic range of musicians to the city and there are always some memorable performances.

Kathryn Joseph


The festival seems to be spilling out into more and more venues too and it was the venue as much as the musicians that drew me to get a ticket for Kathryn Joseph’s gig at the Charles Rennie Mackintosh designed church at Queen’s Cross. As this building sits just in front of Partick Thistle’s Firhill Stadium I pass it every couple of weeks and it is easy to overlook its charms. The only church which Mackintosh built was begun in 1898, commissioned by the Free Church. This meant it had to be a simple design, but Mackintosh smuggled in lots of clever features and ideas into the building. The sell out crowd for this gig was an echo of the congregation of 820 people that used to squeeze in here every Sunday.

Kathryn Joseph in the Mackintosh Church

First up was guitarist Gareth Dickson, who has oft taken the stage with Vashti Bunyan. Playing acoustic guitar whilst accompanying himself amongst reverb and delay pedals, he created a floaty atmosphere suited to the church hall atmosphere. Lovely to listen to.


Aberdonian Kathryn Joseph is also a musician who is best listened to. I know that sounds trite, but last time I saw her was in another converted church, at an all day festival in Oran Mor. On that occasion the noisy rabble of people chatting at the bar all but drowned out her voice, despite RM Hubbert getting up to tell them to “Shut the fuck up!”. She had just won the Scottish Album of the Year award for Bones You Have Thrown Me and Blood I Have Spilled, a delicate collection of songs, where many a barb hides in the lyrics. She sings and plays piano, whilst musical partner Marcus Mackay takes percussion. The fact that they share a bottle of red wine between them on stage whilst they play seems perfectly in keeping with the music; civilised and convivial. Joseph held your attention, as she sat side on at the piano, keeping eye contact with the audience. Her mesmeric voice rose to fill the barrel-vaulted roof of the church. An engrossed crowd were held rapt in attention from the opening song, The Bird, almost unaware of the ache in their backsides from sitting on the wooden pews all evening with only a can of San Pelligrino juice from the alcohol-free bar as sustenance.



John Grant


A physical and musical contrast was provided two nights later in the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall by John Grant, bringing his lumbering frame, gruff baritone and electro-soul-funk thing to town. This is the third time that I have seen him perform now in Glasgow, from an intimate gig in St Andrews in the Square, then the O2 ABC in 2013 and now a sell out night in the concert hall. I am starting to feel like a bit of a John Grant groupie. When I was on holiday in Iceland last year I dragged my family to the wee cafe in Reykjavik that features on the front cover of John Grant's previous album (Mokka Kaffi to be precise - I can heartily recommend it). Unfortunately whilst there I started berating a big German who had jumped the queue, only to find him sat beside me on an uncomfortable flight the next day.

The bridge at Carrbridge, a place worth visiting if you've never been

First up was Carrbridge’s “chick with a guitar” Rachel Sermanni. It was a subdued and melancholy set she performed with her band. It would be nice to hear what she can do if she really cut loose and added some vitriol to her singing, but instead she finished on a gentle lullaby.

John Grant at Glasgow Royal Concert Hall

John Grant performs with a band of musicians plucked from Iceland and Coventry (meaning that The Specials got a mention- yeah!). In front of a guitarist, bass, drums (played by ex-Banshee, Budgie) and keyboard, he alternates between vocals, playing keyboards himself and dancing like a bear wakening from hibernation. He came on stage to the introduction from his latest album, Grey Tickles, Black Pressure, a rendition from Corinthians ("Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast..."). Much of the set comes from this album, but dips back into Queen of Denmark a fair bit and Pale Green Ghosts (there was also a rendition of an old Czars song Drug). Between tracks he is a veritable chatterbox, even demonstrating his local knowledge to complain about the weather being really "dreichy" in Glasgow. He is a master of many languages but his Scots' vernacular needs a bit more work. He was bemused trying to work out his "Celtic connection", concluding that it is because he is called John William Grant. That'll do.

Disappointing is a track on the new album that I like a lot, partly because of Tracey Thorn's vocals on it, here given a live makeover with Mr Grant and the keyboard player singing together. The smart alec lyrics and arch tone of that song is the kind of twist that makes him an interesting character. He always comes over as a person you could happily spend all night talking to ("The genitive case in German, it's true, is something I'm quite partial to. Rachmaninov, Scriabin, Prokofiev, Dostoyevsky, Bulgakov, Vysotsky and Lev...All these things they're just disappointing compared to you").

As before there is a disco-tinged middle third to the gig, before we settle down for quieter stuff at the keyboard to end. Always chipper, always tinged with melancholy and always good company.




Emma Pollock and Grandmaster Flash. January 2016

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Emma Pollock and Grandmaster Flash. Live gig reviews. 29 January 2016. Glasgow.


Appearing on the same blustery night in Glasgow, but sadly not on the same stage, these two acts performing in two recycled church buildings 200 yards apart probably reflect why I love the live music scene in Glasgow so much. There is always something happening, and something for all tastes.

Emma Pollock. Oran Mor. January 2016

Oran Mor, Glasgow

On the final weekend of the Celtic Connections festival Emma Pollock, accompanied at times by 11 other musicians, launched her new solo album, In Search of Harperfield. Her third solo album since The Delgados split up 10 years ago, with much energy in that time being put into running the Chemikal Underground record label that seems to single-handedly power Scottish indie music. She was performing in Oran Mor, the former Kelvinside Parish Church built in 1862, the bar-come-venue-come-theatre space, now adorned with some of Alasdair Gray's finest works.With a nod to the usual noisy chatter from the bar that often overwhelms the sound from the stage in this space, she acknowledged that any gaps between tracks as they undertook this ambitious set, would be covered by the bar noise. However she had nothing to fear in this regard as she fully held the attention of a rapt audience. Accompanied at times by (what is becoming her house string section) The Cairn Quartet, singer Siobhan Wilson, RM Hubbert (who wrote and performs on one of the new album tracks) and BDYPRTS as backing singers there was a bit of shuffling on and off stage, but it was a gig that felt like a family party with a congenial host. At the heart of it are some mighty fine tunes. House On The Hill, written during her Burns Unit days, shows what a great voice for folk music she has if she chose to go in that direction. Intermission, Clemency and Parks and Recreation are stand out tracks for me.

It is a great album, go buy it here.



Grandmaster Flash. Cottiers. January 2016


Cottiers Theatre, Glasgow

We dashed away before the end of the Emma Pollock gig to go 200 yards away to the former Dowanhill United Presbyterian Church. Designed by William Leiper and built in 1866. With fine stained glass and interior decoration by Daniel Cottier, the vacant church has been running for 30 years as Cottiers. A bar, restaurant and theatre space the owners, the Four Acres Charitable Trust continue to slowly restore the church to its former glories. This year they have re-instated the old church organ and perform afternoon concerts on it.

This made it a seemingly incongruous place to find one of the pioneers of hip-hop DJing and mixing on a wet Friday night, however Grandmaster Flash seemed quite at home. He probably isn't the first grandmaster to stand where the alter previously stood in this old church, but it was just appy, nostalgic fare he was dishing out. No longer accompanied by the Furious Five he stood in front of the Cottiers apse with his turntables, playing like the world's cheeriest wedding DJ. He may well have been mixing and scratching with gusto, resplendent in his bespoke Puma gear, but it was hard to see past a crowd of sweaty Glaswegians who were kept bouncing and clapping by their MC. We had a short David Bowie section keeping it topical, someone he spoke of having a lot of respect for. "Glasgow. Let's Go" and "Here we go, here we go, here we go" were as close to any chants or rapping on display, but that was never what he brought to the music he worked on. A quick encore brought us his own tune, White Lines, mixed into White Stripes song Seven Nation Army for a finale. I left with a big smile on my face, as did he I think.

Grandmaster Flash performing in
an old church in Glasgow. Bit weird.

Two old Glasgow churches, two diverse performances by two masters at their game. It's the future for our places of worship.


live review, gig review, Emma Pollock, Glasgow, Cottiers, Oran Mor, Grandmaster Flash

Ruchill, Lambhill, Possilpark, Cadder. Following the Forth and Clyde Canal from Maryhill

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Ruchill, Lambhill, Possilpark, Cadder. Heading up the Forth and Clyde Canal from Maryhill


I grew up in Maryhill, with my bedroom window overlooking the Forth and Clyde Canal at Maryhill Road. At that time it was neglected, overgrown, filled in for much of its length and it was hard to imagine it in its heyday. I was warned by my parents never to go anywhere near it when I was out playing. Since then it has been re-developed, all of the discarded cars and washing machines have been removed from it and dog walkers, joggers and cyclists who go along its towpath regularly are seeing more houses and businesses slowly appearing along the banks of The Nolly (as the canal is known).

Every other week I wander up to the canal to watch Partick Thistle Football Club play at what has been their home since 1909, beside the Firhill Basin on the canal. I know this stretch well but rarely have cause to go further east from Ruchill, through Possil and Lambhill. Whilst doing some family history research today, trying to track down a gravestone in St Kentigerns Cemetery in Lambhill, I took the chance to spend a morning wandering through Cadder, Lambhill, Ruchill and Possilpark.

The Forth and Clyde Canal


Work began in 1768 to cut the canal from east to west, work starting at what would later be Grangemouth. It was completed in fits and starts and in 1785 it reached Bowling, on the Clyde, the last section funded with government money raised from forfeited Jacobite estates. It became a way to transport supplies and goods across the country and industries soon built up along the banks of its 35 mile length. However changes in ship design and the growth of the railways soon led to its decline, and after 30 years of near dormancy it was closed in 1962, and some parts filled in. 

Lambhill


At the time the canal was built much of the area north of Glasgow was farmland, heath and forest. Some sandstone quarries had been dug in the area of Possil Estate to build the tenements of Glasgow. By the mid-1800s these had all been filled in. A new industry started in the Lambhill area in the 1840s when ironstone pits were dug here. With the iron extracted, iron foundries and forges were soon established nearby. The last ironstone pit in this area was the Gilshochill pit, at the western end of Tresta Road just beyond the cemetery, used from 1850-1897 by the Summerlee Iron Company (whose well known works along the canal in Coatbridge are now home to an excellent industrial museum). During World War 1, as demand for iron soared, these Gilshochill pits were re-opened.

Lambhill Stables and bascule bridge

The redeveloped Lambhill Stables today
The 180 year old Lambhill Stables are just off Balmore Road where it crosses the canal. They were built as a staging post for horses which pulled the barges on the canal. There was also accommodation here for the bridge keeper who had to raise and lower Lambhill Bridge. The wooden bascule bridge seen in the first photograph was built in 1790 and replaced in 1930 by an electrically operated lifting bridge. Across the bridge from the stables the Lambhill Ironworks were opened in 1880, by R. Laidlaw and Sons. They made pipes, pumps and gas meters. Lochburn Ironworks which opened in 1877 lay further west along this stretch of the canal. They employed 1000 workers making water and sewage pipes. All of these industries have since closed down and been swept away now.

Possil Marsh and the High Possil Meteorite


Walking along the canal, past the allotments behind Lambhill Stables, there are a couple of paths that take you around Possil Marsh. This nature reserve has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest and bird sanctuary since 1954 . Miners cottages provided by the Carron Company used to lie on the opposite bank of the canal here, called Possil Raw.

Bullrushes on the banks of the canal, which was frozen this morning as I walked along it

Possil Loch lies in the middle of Possil Marsh
As you follow the path around Possil Marsh you will come to a stone at its northern end. This is a monument which commemorates the High Possil Meteorite. This is one of only four meteorites to have been found in Scotland. The others from Scotland are the Perth meteorite of 1830, the Strathmore meteorite which fell in 1917 and a meteorite found in fields near Glenrothes in 1998. The High Possil meteorite fell on the 5th of April 1804. Three men working in a field nearby reported hearing a whizzing noise, or the sound of a gong before the thud of something hitting the earth. A group of men working in a quarry near where it landed described hearing this whizzing sound for about a minute, then rushed over to where they saw something hit the ground. At the bottom of a drain they found a stone unlike any other from that area. The owner of the land, Robert Crawford, took possession of the two pieces of stone found and when he died in 1910 his sister presented them to the Hunterian Museum at the University of Glasgow. Bits of it have been distributed to various institutions, including the British Museum, and some of it appears to be available for sale on the internet. 

The High Possil meteorite memorial in Possil Marsh

The High Possil meteorite on display in the Hunterian Museum
The largest remaining chunk of it is still on display in the Hunterian Museum in Glasgow. This stony piece weighs around 150g and although extra-terrestrial in origin, coming from the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, it contains minerals similar to those found in basalt, with 9% nickel-iron alloys. Although it would have hit the atmosphere of Earth at 150,000 miles per hour, the slowing effect of the atmosphere means it would have struck the ground at a few hundred miles per hour. Made of debris from events that formed the sun and the planets, this chunk of rock is dated by radioactive dating at about 4500 million years old. 

After walking round the rest of Possil Marsh I returned to Lambhill Stables and enjoyed a mug of tea and a lovely bacon roll at their cafe for £2.30.

Waterman's House, Balmore Road
Beside the Lambhill Stables buildings, at the end of Skirsa Street, lies a waterman's cottage built towards the end of the 19th century. The pipe carrying water to Glasgow from Loch Katrine lies under the ground parallel to the road here and was overseen and maintained by Glasgow Corporation waterworks who employed "watermen", housed in a number of houses like this.

Lambhill Cemetery, The Western Necropolis, St Kentigerns Cememetery


Gatepost of the Western Necropolis
Across Balmore Road from Possil Marsh lies the largest of the four Glasgow necropoli. The Western Necropolis is part of a cemetery complex which started with Lambhill Cemetery in 1882. St Kentigerns Roman Catholic Cemetery and the Western Necropolis followed soon afterwards. The burial grounds here contains the first crematorium built in Scotland, designed by James Chalmers in 1893. The graveyards contain many graves of soldiers including over 350 World War 1 burials. Glasgow had four hospitals operating as war hospitals to receive hundreds of soldiers at a time from France on special ambulance trains: Stobhill Hospital, The Western District Hospital, Springburn Hospital and Merryflats War Hospital in Govan. Families of those who died whilst in Glasgow as a result of their injuries could choose for their relatives to be buried here. Some of these soldiers were from Canada and Australia. There are also 124 graves here from World War 2.
I came here today to find the burial plot of my great-grandfather James Donnelly who was from the Gorbals. As a dentist working at Gorbals Cross (among other things he did) he made gum shields for Gorbals born boxer Benny Lynch, Scotland's first boxing world champion, who is also buried in St Kentigerns Cemetery.

Gravestone commemorating Benny Lynch

The Crematorium in Glasgow's Western Necropolis


Cadder Pit Disaster


Funeral procession across Lambhill Bridge to the cemetery

Also buried in the Western Necropolis are the twenty-two men who died from blackdamp as the result of a fire in Cadder No.15 pit, which started on 3rd August 1913. Twenty six local men were finishing their shift when the fire broke out underground. The pit that they were working in went down for 1000 feet and ran north, under the River Kelvin. Coal mining was common in this area at the time after the ironstone was largely exhausted, with pits from Anniesland and Maryhill, across to Bishopbriggs. Thousands of people lined the street to pay their respects as the funerals were held.

Cadder pit disaster memorial in St Kentigerns cemetery
The Catholic and Protestant miners were buried separately
There is nothing now remaining to show that a major coal mining industry was active in this area. Pit No. 15 was operated by the Carron Company of Falkirk. At its peak it could produce 400 tons of coal per day and 300 men were employed there. The company ran several pits in this area. Where the pit lay is now roughly underneath the waste reprocessing plant on the Balmuildy Road heading towards Bishopbriggs from Lambhill.


Former site of Cadder Pit Nos. 15 and 17


Possilpark


Leaving Lambhill, if you head down Balmore Road you are soon in Possilpark. On the right as you head towards Glasgow lies the disused Possil train station. This station was opened in 1897, but closed in the Beeching cuts in 1964. In the 1980s and 90s it housed a bookies shop. A scrapyard lies behind the old station building and the building itself is in a bad state of repair, and surely unlikely ever to be restored to its former glory. 

Old Possil Station
The lands of "Possele" date back to the 13th century. For centuries they passed through the hands of several wealthy families, many of whom had made their money in the West Indies via the slave economy there. By 1834 the mansion house and lands were described as "...far away from the noise and smoke of the city....as retired and delightful a country residence as any in the country."

In 1850 Walter MacFarlane was running a successful foundry in the Gallowgate, on Saracen Lane, behind the Saracen Head pub. He bought 100 acres of the Possil estate including the mansion house, in order to expand his business and build a large new works. He demolished the house and felled the woodland to make way for his new Saracen Foundry. Once railway access was built he created a foundry covering 14 acres and built tenements alongside it for the workforce. A new street, Saracen Street, named after the place his business started, was laid out from Port Dundas up to the grand front gates of the plant. In 1872 10 people lived in the area of Possil, by 1871 10,000 people were living here.

Possil from the air in 1947, with the Saracen Foundry off the top left corner, and today

The Saracen Foundry became very specialised in fashionable, ornate ironworking. They built bandstands, water fountains, street lamps, railing and bridges which can be found all over Glasgow, Britain and the Empire. After World War 2 new materials and new tastes meant that the business began to struggle. Despite being one of the plants producing the red K6 telephone boxes of Britain, by the mid 1960s they could not carry on. The company closed, and the building was soon demolished. The area went into a spiral of decline with mass unemployment and subsequent social problems.

Gates of the Saracen Foundry, Possilpark

Water fountain canopy from the Saracen Foundry, at the top of Saracen Street
Although a lot of the street furniture produced here was requisitioned and melted down during World War 2 for the war effort in Glasgow, you can still see the work produced here in the ornate iron street lamps in George Square, the lams outside the Mitchell Library, the bridge over the River Kelvin at Kelvinbridge subway station and in whole buildings, such as the iron work of the Kibble Palace in the Botanic Gardens.

Kibble Palace, Glasgow earlier this winter
It is about 7 years since I last walked down Saracen Street, when I spent 12 months working out here. It hasn't changed much in that time. Like Victoria Road or Dumbarton Road this is a high street that is lively and filled with a bustle of local people going about their business.

Looking south down Saracen Street

Mural on Saracen Street tenement
The mural on this wall of a Saracen Street tenement no longer faces a gap site, and a few new buildings are filling some of the many gaps around Possil now. The mural recalls the foundry and industries of the area, no longer here and still the main thing missing from Possil - employment.


Old Co-op building on Saracen Street. No idea what the jeep thing is all about

New Health Centre, Saracen Street

Possilpark Library
I spent many a lunchtime in Possilpark Library when I worked here and am glad to see this grand old building still going strong. The horrible Health Centre building on Denmark Street always felt like it had been made particularly ugly and brutal to punish the locals in some way, and I am delighted to see that it has now been shut down and replaced by a bright, shiny new building. If one area of Glasgow needs investment in improving the health of its people all the statistics show that this is the area that could gain most. (see recent Guardian article)

Former Askit Powders factory, Possilpark

In the 1920s Adam Laidlaw started producing his Askit powders in this building, an addictive mixture of aspirin and caffeine which was taken by people for everything from headaches to colds, to hangovers and as a general tonic. Everyone over a certain age will be singing "Askit fights the miseries" on even hearing the word Askit. Eventually the brand was bought by a major pharmaceutical company but is no longer produced due to safety fears over its choice of ingredients.

Going further down Saracen Street and turning right past the Seewoo Chinese supermarket onto Possil Road you pass the former site of the fantastically named Rockvilla School. Built between 1874-77 in an area known as Rockvilla in the days before any housing was built here (and later called Hamiltonhill), this school had a roll of up to 650 children. Closed in 1964 the building was B-listed but fell victim to the mysterious Glasgow fires that clear troublesome buildings from the cityscape and it was demolished in 1996. The separate entrances for boys and girls at the bottom of their respective stairwells can still be seen, a strict requirement of the school authorities of the city at that time which looks incredibly silly here when it meant two concentric flights of stairs had to be built.


Rockvilla School, Dawson Street

Old entrance doorways to Rockvilla School

At the top of Dawson Street, behind the site of Rockvilla School is "The Whisky Bond". Originally built as a bonded warehouse for Highland Distillers in 1957 it is now used as offices, studios and gallery space. Glasgow Sculpture Studio have a gallery on the ground floor that is always worth having a look around as they do have imaginative and unusual exhibitions on. Applecross Wharf is home to some of the oldest canal buildings in Scotland. Built as warehouses these whitewashed buildings are now used as the offices of Scottish Canals.

Just north of this bridge lies "Old Basin House". Built in 1790, engineer Hugh Baird later lived here and ran several local businesses whilst living here, including the Old Basin Inn on the other bank of the canal. A few walls of this old pub still stand. To carry on south across this bridge you would come to Oakbank Hospital and the Astoria cinema that I have written about previously.

Whisky Bond building by the canal

A bascule bridge at Applecross Wharf

Old Basin House, built 1790

Hawthorn Street, PossilPark


Going back to the other end of Possilpark we come to Hawthorn Street. The former Possilpark Tram Depot, built on this site originally in 1901, stands here a shadow of its former self. It was converted into a bus garage in 1958 by its owners, Glasgow Corporation Transport but has been closed since the year 2000. There is a huge amount of empty land lying derelict behind this facade.

Possilpark Tram Depot, Hawthorn Street (and local youth)
Just east past the old tram depot is the home of Glasgow Speedway team, The Glasgow Tigers and Ashfield Junior Football Team. Known as Saracen Park when Ashfield Football and Athletic Club moved here in 1937, they share the stadium with the speedway team in what now seems to be called The Peugeot Ashfield Stadium. Ashfield FC were formed in 1886 and have been one of the most successful teams in junior football, the first junior team to win 100 trophies, although at present they ply their trade in the Central League Division 2. The speedway team have been drawing bigger crowds in recent times and have redeveloped the stadium a bit with a diner open 7 days a week.

The Peugeot Ashfield Stadium

Glasgow Tigers

Literally around the corner from Ashfield's ground stands the home of their Possil rivals, Glasgow Perthshire. The Shire were formed in 1890 and play at Keppoch Park, in front of a huge pigeon loft. These two teams can give Dundee and Dundee United a run for their money in having the shortest distance to travel for derby matches in Scotland (they played on the 6th Feb 2016, a 2-2 draw).

Keppoch Park, Possil

At the other end of Hawthorn Street where it crosses Balmore Road lies the former Mecca (and after the second world war The Vogue) cinema. If the Astoria was the rough cinema in Possil, this was the posh one. Opened in 1933 in was changed to become a bingo hall in the 1960s. More recently it has been home to the Allied Vehicles garage and a kilt hire shop.

Vogue cinema, Balmore Road

Vogue cinema today, with Glsgow Tigers Speedway mural

Ruchill


With Glasgow expanding in size towards the end of the 19th century and the city's fever hospital at Belvedere being overcrowded, in 1891 Glasgow Corporation bought land at Ruchill to build a new hospital, a public park and a golf course (which is a very decent wee 9 hole course still run by the council/ Glasgow Life). Ruchill Hospital was laid out high on the hill here and the ornate water tower of the hospital has dominated the northern skyline of the city ever since. Designed by Alexander McDonald who also designed the People's Palace, Ruchill Hospital consisted of 16 separate ward blocks which could accommodate 440 patients. It dealt with smallpox, diptheria, measles, scarlet fever and polio. Later a pavilion for dealing with patients with TB was built. There were also service buildings, stables, nurses homes and the staff villas still standing along Bilsland Drive, where the only entrance to the hospital was. The high position of the site required the building of the 50 meter high water tower. As health problems of the city changed the role of the hospital changed with time. It became home to an important virology lab, a place for the treatment of sexually transmitted diseases and had several geriatric wards. In the 1980s, when I was out here as a student, it was the primary centre in Glasgow for dealing with people fighting HIV and AIDS. At that time, when this disease was emerging, Ruchill Hospital felt a rather isolated and frightening place which maybe reflected how the young people who were dying from this illness felt. With hospital re-organisation in Glasgow the city's infectious disease unit was transferred to the Brownlee Centre at Gartnavel Hospital and in 1998 Ruchill Hospital was closed.

Former ward at Ruchill Hospital, now demolished
The land was sold to Scottish Enterprise and plans drawn up to build 500 houses, but none of that has yet come to pass. Many of the buildings here were C and B-listed but have been demolished, as the original developers wanted, when they were declared to be beyond repair. At present the plans are to preserve the fantastic water tower, which now stands in splendid isolation like some bizarre lighthouse.

The water tower, all that remains of Ruchill Hospital

Ruchill Hospital water tower
From here I headed along Bilsland Drive to Ruchill Park to enjoy the panoramic views over the city and across to the Campsie Hills. The artificial mound on which the flagpole here stands was made from spoil cleared during the construction of Ruchill Hospital. Ruchill Park has never had a lot going for it beyond the views. On old maps it was called Fir Hill in the 19th century. The football stadium built in a bend of the canal in 1909 at the bottom of the hill, on Firhill Road, gets its name from this. It has become more difficult now to see Firhill Stadium from Ruchill Park with all the new housing on the north side of the canal. Only the floodlights sticking above the houses are clearly visible. Also from the veiwpoint you can see the extent of the new housing being built along Bilsland Drive, meaning this area has changed a lot in recent times, and seems to have more of a spring in its step.

View towards Park Circus from Ruchill Park with the windfarm on the horizon

View towards North Woodside, with the floodlights of Firhill Stadium sticking up above the new flats

View south from Ruchill Park with the Armadillo in the middle and Glasgow Uni tower on the right

Looking north towards the Wynford, with the large mural on Maryhill Road beside East Park Home visible
As I hopped back on my bike and went back along the banks of the canal towards Maryhill Road at Shakespeare Street I made one more stop to have a look at the Ruchill Church Hall here, designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. It is from 1899 and pre-dates the red standstone church alongside it. This is one of his more hidden away works and inside and out has lots of typical Mackintosh details. Did he intend the frontage to look like a startled Transformer robot though? Who knows?


Ruchill Church Hall

Anyway I have written too much already. I enjoyed my day having a closer look at things which I often walk or drive past without paying much attention and I would encourage you to go and do the same (especially for the bacon rolls at Lambhill Stables).

Street Art. Glasgow Murals Update

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In a previous blogpost I had tried to document as many Glasgow murals as I could, but managed to miss a fare few. Also since then there have been many spectacular new additions. I have therefore gone back and amended my old blog to bring it up to date. Follow this link to see what you are missing.


Live music reviews : Ela Orleans. Joanna Newsom. Glasgow

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Ela Orleans. Live Score for "Lucky Star". Glasgow Film Festival
Joanna Newsom. Glasgow Royal Concert Hall



Ela Orleans 

Live review. Queens Cross Mackintosh Church. 26 Feb 2016.

The Glasgow Film Festival is now a sprawling event, moving out far beyond its origins at the Glasgow Film Theatre on Rose Street. One of the most intriguing performances in this year's schedule was the showing of 1929 silent film, Lucky Star, accompanied by Ela Orleans playing her newly composed score for the film live. To add to the magic of this idea, the film was shown in the beautiful Queens Cross Church designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. I have seen Ela Orleans before, supporting Julia Holter and performing at the Counterflows festival, where she played music to accompany the film visuals of artist Maja Borg. I do enjoy these old silent films, dusted off and presented to a new audience with live music. One of the best that I have seen was ZombieZombie performing to the film "Battleship Potemkin". The film "Lucky Star" maybe provides less drama than Sergei Eisenstein's film to hang music to, but Ela Orleans created a beautiful soundscape for the film. 

The film itself is entrancingly filmed. The poor farm girl Mary, played by Janet Gaynor (who was later to become the first winner of the best actress Oscar), falls for handsome Tim, Charles Farrell, just as war is declared. He goes off to war with the bullying Martin Wrenn, played by Guinn Williams who played sidekicks in many Westerns for another 30 years. Tim is crippled in the war and as he and Mary fall for each other, Martin is ready to steal her away. The acting was beautiful to watch, with some greatly choreographed scenes, such as the fistfight at the top of a telegraph pole. I wasn't familiar with the work of director Frank Borzage, but his life makes interesting reading, and in 1929 he was the winner of the first Oscar awarded for a director. The melodrama of the ending may seem a bit dated now, but you are watching the denouement with a satisfied smile on your face. I really enjoy Ela Orleans lo-fi electronica sound and she has some gorgeous albums out that I would encourage you to seek out. With keyboards, violin, electronic sounds and field recordings Ela's soundtrack added so much to the film, defining the characters, the mood, the settings. From bird tweets adding to the bucolic rural idyll, to the bangs and crashes of trench warfare it was an integral part of the whole picture, way beyond what any Wurlitzer organ player would have managed back in the 1920s.


Joanna Newsom

Live review. Glasgow Royal Concert Hall. 2 March 2016

Joanna Newsom has been ploughing her own furrow for over a decade now and arrived in Glasgow this week touring with her impressive four-piece backing band to promote her new album, Divers. First up was Robin Peckhold, lead singer of Fleet Foxes, playing a solo set with acoustic guitar. Distinctive and bluesy he held the hall in silence. The church-like atmosphere of adulation continued when Joanna Newsom arrived on stage. With a breezy smile and business-like manner you swept through her set, alternating between playing at the harp or piano, both of which she plays beautifully. Her fellow musicians, including brother Pete on drums and keyboard, rotated through a bamboozling collection of instruments, often changing mid-song several times. Her quirky singing style lies somewhere between Kate Bush, and Bjork on helium, and at times I found it too off-putting to make any connection with the songs. Also the lyrics are interesting and intriguing when read, but unintelligible heard live. When she paused to re-tune her harp she offered a quick Q&A but gave away nothing, her focus seemingly more on her harp than her audience (though most questions were along the lines of "you're great aren't you?" she probably was right just to blank "do you like Buckfast?"). 

Sonically interesting, but I found it all disappointingly unengaging.



Glasgow Libraries, Then and Now

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Glasgow Libraries, Past and Present. 



Don't Overlook Your Local Library


March sees the arrival of the annual Aye Write! book festival in Glasgow, based at the Mitchell Library at Charing Cross. Glasgow City Council manages 32 libraries across the city in addition to the Mitchell Library. At times of falling council budgets across Scotland the libraries often seem to be a soft option for cuts with shortened opening hours, library closures (such as sixteen recently announced library closures in Fife) and job losses. Freedom of information requests have also revealed less obvious cuts taking place with councils across the country cutting their expenditure on new books in recent years. If the books are not kept fresh and replaced the appeal of the library falls. However libraries have for many years now been about more than just lending books. For many people the local library can be their only way to access the internet. Libraries offer DVD and music loans, ebook downloads, local history information, newspapers and magazines, book groups, toddler activities and other social functions. Each of the Glasgow libraries also offers MacMillan cancer support and information services now. All of these activities are important in combating social exclusion for many people. Even just having somewhere warm and dry to sit for a bit out of the house, without having to pay money to anyone, is as good a reason as any to maintain public libraries in communities across the city.

Possilpark Library, Glasgow
I was thinking about this recently when I went walking about in Possil. When I worked in the area a few years ago I used to sit in the library there quite often, browsing the shelves or flicking through a magazine at lunchtime. As a child I was never away from the library, wherever we were staying in Glasgow. For me Whiteinch and Maryhill libraries were the ones that I knew my way around as a child and still have a clear mental image of their layout. When I was a bit older I used to go to Knightswood Library every week with my brother after going swimming. We would go and see my auntie Isobel on the way to the library, pick up her books and swap them for some new ones we chose for her (she had a soft spot for Tintin and Lucky Luke).

When studying for my Highers I took it upon myself to get the bus into town after school once a week and I would sit in one of the big reading rooms in the Mitchell Library to catch up on my homework with some peace and quiet. Whilst there I would get distracted, wandering off into the Glasgow Room. I would pore over old directories and maps or look up famous events in the microfiche of the Glasgow Herald and Daily Record (this was in the days before things like this could be found on the internet). Getting to know my way around their archives I have subsequently been back there many times doing family history research.

Since my own children have come along again I have spent many days entertaining them in Partick and Hillhead libraries, introducing them to new books and new authors, and as they got older seeing what else takes their fancy in the adult section.

I have used all these libraries for years without really paying them much attention, but I know that I would notice if they were no longer there. So I thought I would try to have a look around some of them (though not all thirty-three). A brief history of Glasgow's public libraries.

  • Early Glasgow Libraries


In 1898 Glasgow Corporation wanted to expand the centralised library resources it held. A year later an addendum to the 1899 Corporation Tramways and General Purposes Act gave them the power to move forward with their plan. It allowed the corporation to levy ratepayers one penny (1d) in the pound to establish free public libraries, to buy books and maps, and to maintain the libraries. In doing this they created most of the libraries familiar to us in the city today.

At this time Glasgow Corporation operated the Stirling Library and the Mitchell Library (which in 1898 was located in Miller Street). Stirling's Library was funded by a bequest from Glasgow merchant Walter Humphrey Stirling (known as "Humphy Watty" because of a deformity of his spine). When he died unmarried in 1791 he left his 804 books, his house in Miller Street and £1000 to establish a free library. Initially located in his former home on Miller Street, it soon moved to another building on the same street. Initially the books were for reference only and available only to subscribers. By 1885 the collection had been added to by further donations and amounted to 50,000 volumes. At that time an annual subscription to the library cost 10s. 6d. As the book collection grew it moved to different locations in the city, including sites at St Enoch Square and in Hutchesons Hospital.

There were other subscription libraries within Glasgow, and in the surrounding burghs which were not yet part of the city. These included a library in Maryhill established by the owner of Dawsholm Paper Mill, one in Pollokshaws set up in 1844 by the then Provost and a reading room in the Pearce Institute in Govan. In the 1880s there were also notable subscription reading rooms in Trongate at the Glasgow Central Working Men's Club and Institute, and the Bridgeton Working Men's Club and Reading Room which had a 5s. annual subscription. For this you had access to 2000 volumes, newspapers, periodicals and other distractions such as chess and draughts. The stated aim of these facilities was the "promotion of the social, moral and intellectual welfare and recreation of the industrial classes".

Stirling's Library in the 1950s in the Royal Exchange building
The "Glasgow Public Library" was another subscription library on the go in the city, established in 1804. In 1871 Stirling's Library merged with this to form "Stirling's and Glasgow Public Library". This was three years before the death of tobacco manufacturer Stephen Mitchell, who bequeathed money to establish a new public reference library, which took his name (see below). In 1954 Stirling Library took up the main hall at the Royal Exchange building on Queen Street, with "The Commercial Library", formed in 1916, occupying the basement. The Commercial Library met the information needs of local industry and commerce. The Stirling Library stayed here for 40 years, before being moved back to Miller Street whilst this building was converted into the Gallery of Modern Art. The basement here was initially used as gallery space when GoMA opened in 1996, but in 2002 Stirling Library was moved back into this space in the Royal Exchange building, becoming the clumsily named "Library at GoMA".

In a flurry of municipal socialism, the intention of Glasgow Corporation at the end of the 19th century was to build eight new libraries. Their plans were at a preliminary stage when an offer of funding came from Andrew Carnegie, who was staying in Knockderry Castle in Dumbartonshire at the time. With a gift of £100,000 he wrote to the city
"Let Glasgow flourish, so say we all of us Scotsmen throughout the world."
Sixteen libraries were eventually built, which varied in size and content depending on the area in which they were located. The complete scheme, including buying the sites, construction of the buildings and purchase of the books and periodicals cost £337,480. Although they are generally called the Carnegie libraries, with further smaller donations Carnegie's contribution was a third of this money.

  • Glasgow's Carnegie Libraries


By the late 19th century Andrew Carnegie had made his fortune in the American steel industry. His was the archetypal story of the American dream, a poor immigrant arriving with nothing and rising to make his millions. Born in Dunfermline, he emigrated to the USA as a child with his parents in 1848. The family set sail for America from the Broomielaw in Glasgow. In his later years he became renowned as a philanthropist, reportedly giving away 90% of his fortune. Some of his earliest gifts went to create splendid swimming baths and a free library in his old home town of Dunfermline. He established university departments, medical facilities and educational scholarships. At this time there were few free public libraries and as a strong believer in their merits he funded over 2000 free public libraries around the world.

In Glasgow his 1901 donation is associated with the construction of seven of the most impressive of the city's new libraries. These were designed by Inverness architect James R Rhind. Rhind had been working in Montreal for several years and many of his designs included elaborate baroque arches, columns and sculpture which are thought to derive from the French influenced buildings he saw there. Some of these libraries are still among the city's most handsome buildings. Rhind designed the libraries at Bridgeton, Dennistoun, Govanhill (Govan and Crosshill) , Hutchesontown, Maryhill, Woodside and Parkhead.

Townhead Library, Glasgow. Now demolished.
Of the original libraries Anderston Library on MacIntyre Street was the first to be demolished, making way for the M8 motorway in 1968. Townhead Library on Castle Street (pictured above) was demolished more recently, in 1998. The statues from this building were sold to an American businessman, Addison Kimball of Illinois, for £12,500.

Dennistoun Library, Glasgow
Dennistoun Library in the city's east end was built in 1905 in yellow sandstone. A bronze figure stands on top of its dome, with an open book resting on her arms. This sculpture and the female figures carved into the arch above a window are attributed to William Kelloch Brown. Brown is responsible for much of the sculpture on the Rhind designed libraries. He trained at the Glasgow School of Art, before winning a scholarship to London. Whilst there he constructed the balconies of the Savoy Hotel. He returned to Glasgow and taught at the Glasgow School of Art. From its opening Dennistoun offered newspapers as well as books to its readers, laid out on a wall at one end of the reading room. Their inclusion was controversial with some feeling that they were trivial, took up too much space and would attract "unsavoury loafers" to the library and deter others from coming. Other people spoke of the potential advantages of newspapers in libraries. They believed that newspapers would draw people to the library who would then progress to reading books, that they would deter people from going to nearby public houses instead and would allow them to keep informed and find job adverts.

Sculpture on top of the dome at Dennistoun Library
Parkhead Library opened in 1906, on Tollcross Road next door to the public baths and washhouse. The same bronze figure can be seen atop the dome here as at Dennistoun Library, still reading her book. More elaborate sculptures by William Kelloch Brown stand above the entrance, looking like a family group.

Parkhead Library, Glasgow
Govanhill Library, Glasgow
Govanhill Library was opened as Govan and Crosshill District Library in 1906 at the junction of Langside Road and Calder Street. A single storey building, again richly decorated with sculptures of figures holding books and laurel branches on the Calder Street side similar to the sculptures above the doors at Woodside and Maryhill Libraries. A bronze, winged angel balances on one leg on top of the dome here. In 1995 she was stolen by four men who pretended to be workmen taking it away for renovation. It was recovered by the police and returned to its rightful place.
Angel on the dome of Govanhill Library. The brass ribbon that used to
 trail backwards from her hand is long gone
The Glasgow psychiatrist RD Laing grew up in Govanhill in the 1930s and wrote about this sculpture in his autobiography.
"My life saving consolations were moonlight and gaslight, the angel on the dome of the library..."
He later recalls that he was
"...very imbued with books. Right outside my bedroom window was the dome of a public library on top of which was an angel, poised on one foot as though to take off to the moon and the stars."

Ladies Reading Room, Maryhill District Library 1907
Before becoming part of Glasgow, Maryhill had a free public library since 1823. It was financed from fees for lectures and contributions from the owners of the Dawsholm Paper Mill and local gentry. Maryhill Library where it stands today on Maryhill Road (formerly Wyndford Street) was opened in 1905.
Maryhill Library, Glasgow
Built in yellow sandstone on a narrow site it has two stories and a basement. It had separate adult and children's entrances and separate reading rooms for men and ladies. This library I can remember visiting often in the 1970s, when the newspapers were laid out along one wall, with a large wooden pole holding the newspaper together, and presumably preventing anyone taking it home with them. As at Parkhead it was near the washhouse or "steamie", which used to lie across the other side of Maryhill Road from here. At the time of writing this the library is temporarily closed for repairs to its roof.
Woodside Library is not a million miles away from here, on St Georges Road.  Also opened in 1905 it is a handsome, single storey building with round-headed windows, Ionic columns and more sculpture attributed to William Kelloch Brown.
Woodside Library, Glasgow
Sculptures at Woodside Library, Glasgow
At the top of the building stands a sculpture of a woman holding a book with a couple of youths at her feet. Dressed as she is in teacherly robes, she is obviously imparting knowledge from its pages to this pair. Three naked females are depicted below this sculpture, reclining on piles of books, infants at their feet.

  • Bridgeton Library 

The building which currently houses Bridgeton Library, right at Bridgeton Cross, was previously the Olympia cinema and music hall. With this in mind the library is home to what is described as "Scotland's first BFI mediatheque". As well as all the usual library services it has an archive of British Film Institute material which can be watched in various booths in the building. This includes old films and television programmes, documentaries, public health films and old adverts. An imaginative use of an old building.

Bridgeton Library, Glasgow
However just around the corner from here lies the former Bridgeton Library building. This was the first of the James R. Rhind designed libraries to open in Glasgow in 1903. The one time Bridgeton District Library on Landressy Street, has recently found a new use as home to theGlasgow Women's Library. This recent newspaper article describes the 25 year history of this venture, which now has a beautifully renovated building to house its archive and events. At risk of falling into dereliction the building now has been saved and has a role in celebrating the achievements of women of Scotland.

Former Bridgeton Library building, Glasgow
Opened in May 1906 the building follows the concave curve of the street. A new facade on the southern end features titles from the Women's Library collection. On the original building allegorical figures, attributed to the sculptor William Kelloch Brown, represent learning, industry, art and commerce. As usual, books are prominent in the sculptures.

Glasgow Women's Library now
 Men's reading room, Bridgeton Library, Glasgow, 1908
The building itself has been re-modeled inside, but still houses a lending library, largely of literature by women writers. The Glasgow Women's Library's extensive collection has gained the "recognised collection of national significance status". When Bridgeton Library was opened, like many others of the time it had separate men's and ladies' reading rooms and a distinct boys and girls entrance. As Glasgow set an example in library provision for other cities to emulate, a conference of librarians was held in the city in 1907 to show off their facilities. Not everyone was impressed was the class of people these facilities were attracting, as this contribution to the Library World periodical of 1907 suggests
"The general impression given by the reading rooms visited was that they were all overcrowded with young men of the labouring class during the day, a most surprising circumstance considering the prosperity of the city and the amount of work going on. Bridgeton especially attracts a rough type of Irish reader, and spitting assumes am epidemic form both there and elsewhere." 

  • Hutchesontown Library

Former Hutchesontown District Library, McNeil Street, Glasgow
Hutchesontown District Library was the last Glasgow library designed by James R. Rhind and his grandest and most decorative. It opened in November 1906 on McNeil Street with a stock of 9,600 books, added to by donors over the years. With slum clearance in the area coming on apace it was closed in 1964, but thankfully spared the wrecking ball. It is currently home to an after school club and offices.
St Mungo at Hutchesontown Library
On Hutchesontown Library the bronze winged figure holding a book looks to be cast from the same mould by William Kellock Brown as those on several other of the libraries he was involved with. The other sculpture work above the door is of a square jawed St Mungo flanked by six female figures holding emblems from the Glasgow coat of arms, all very handsome.

Gorbals Library on Main Street opened in 1907, in two upper floors of the Gorbals baths building. It was replaced by a new Gorbals Library on Norfolk Street in 1933 which closed in 1986. As attempts are made to re-generate the Gorbals area a new library was opened on Crown Street in 2004, a rather functional building by comparison with what went before.

  • Other Southside Libraries

Langside Library
Battle of Langside, 1568, commemorated on the wall outside the library

Langside Library was designed by George Simpson, who also designed Possilpark Library. It opened in 1915. It is noteworthy as the first Glasgow library to let you chose your own books from the shelves instead of requesting them at a counter. As you can see from this 1907 picture below, readers chose a book from the catalogues laid out for them to look through and requested it at the counter. They could then take it home or to the reading rooms. This lies at the site of the Battle of Langside, where Mary, Queen of Scots fought Moray. 300 men died in a battle which lasted less than an hour. This is commemorated on a wall outside of the  library and with a large painting on one wall inside the library within the children's section, a section which has recently suffered water damage after some lead was stolen from its roof. The painting was designed by Maurice Greiffenhagen and painted with the assistance of students from the Glasgow School of Art.

Order your books at the counter. Interior of the now demolished Anderston Library
Pollokshields Library stands on Leslie Street and because of the needs of its local community also stocks books and magazines in Urdu. It opened in 1907. If it seems a bit more bland than some of the other libraries, that may be a result of it being one of only two of the libraries built at this time being designed in-house by the City Corporation's Office of Public Works. Carved plaques at the front commend "History" and "The Arts" to us, whilst a modern sign advises us that this is no place to hang about.

"No Loitering" sign at Pollokshields Library
The other Carnegie library designed in-house by the corporation was Kingston Library. Situated on Paisley Road near Springfield Quay, the building also included a hall, Kingston Halls and the local police station. Built in 1903 it was the first of the new libraries to open, with Lord Provost John Ure Primrose opening it with the words
"We are citizens of no mean city"
Although the term "no mean city" is now associated with the Gorbals set novel of 1935, the Lord Provost was not the source of it. The phrase itself is actually from the new testament, how Paul the Apostle describes the city of  Tarsus. No longer a library the building still stands despite a serious fire destroying the tenement that abutted it in 2010, used at present by a charity for the homeless. The name of this Clydeside area, Kingston, of course harks back to the trade Glasgow used to do with the Caribbean colonies.
Former Kingston Library and Kingston Halls
The library in Cathcart is based in a hall of The Couper Institute on Clarkston Road. Robert Couper's family ran the Millholm Paper Mills on the banks of the White Cart Water. The halls were built in 1887 from a bequest he left and built by architect James Sellars. He was born in the Gorbals in 1843 and also designed the Stewart Memorial Fountain in Kelvingrove Park and the Victoria Infirmary building. Originally there was a library hall to the left of the Couper Institute, but it was re-modelled and built as an extension on the opposite side of the building in 1923.
Couper Institute and Library, Glasgow
Elder Park Library in Govan is one of the most distinctive in the city. It's location, standing alone just inside Elder Park helps too. Both the park and the library take their name from Isabella Elder, widow of John Elder, who took over and grew the Govan shipyard that took his name in the 19th century. When he died in 1869, as his heir she successfully took over the running of the business for nine months before transferring ownership to a partnership led by her brother. With no children herself, over the next 35 years of her life she donated much of her money to causes close to her heart. She bought North Park House on Queen Margaret Drive (which later became the BBC building) and, at a time when women were not admitted to any Scottish universities, gave it to the Association for the Higher Education of Women to establish Queen Margaret College. Also on this site she funded a medical school. In 1883 she bought land near to Elder's Fairfield Shipyard and established Elder Park to commemorate her husband. In 1901 she provided £10,000 to build a free library in the park and a further £17,000 to buy books and to maintain the library. One condition that she laid down was that the library must open on Sundays. In 1903 she attended the opening ceremony, alongside Andrew Carnegie.

Elder Park Library, Govan, Glasgow
Designed by J.J. Burnet, whereas many of the libraries have scrolls withe "arts", "history" or sculptures representing "geography" on them, this building has the rare site of "science" carved into its wall with pride. Above the entrance there is a sculpture of the Govan coat of arms, a shield with a ship on the stocks, a carpenter and an engineer standing on either side of it. Govan and this library was clearly a place for the working man. The Govan motto is at it's base "Nihil sine labore" ("Nothing without work").

Nihil sine labore

  • More recent additions 

Shettleston Library alongside the facade of the former Wellshot/Shettleston Halls
As Glasgow grew and expanded the demand for new libraries continued to grow. Shettleston Library was opened in 1925. Beside it now stands the facade of Wellshot Halls, the building destroyed in a fire. On the Tuesday following the opening 1672 books were loaned out, showing that if you build it they will come, in their droves. A local newspaper reported that
"Shortly after four o'clock hundreds of children were on the scene and the commissioner who was in attendance had great difficulty keeping the children in order. They swarmed round the door like bees round a hive"
Partick Burgh Council, not yet part of Glasgow until 1912, turned down Carnegie''s 1901 offer of £10,000 to build their own library as they did not wish to impose the one penny in the pound tax on their ratepayers to fund the books and maintenance. In 1925 Partick Library was opened, designed, like Whiteinch Library, by Thomas Somers of the city engineer's department. To make Partick know whose town they lived in now, the Glasgow coat of arms is prominent by the entrance.

Partick Library, Dumbarton Road, Glasgow
Whiteinch Library opened in 1926, lies across the road from the grand, and increasingly derelict Whiteinch Burgh Hall.
Whiteinch Library, Glasgow
The housing estates built in Glasgow after the First World War had to wait a while to get their own libraries. This was not helped by the economic depression of the inter-war years. Riddrie housing estate, like Mosspark and Knightswood, was built between 1920 and 1927 and it was the first of the outlying estates to get its own purpose built library. As I had a granny living in Mosspark and as a teenager lived in Knightswood, cycling around Riddrie today is just like being back home, apart from the massive prison overlooking it all.
Riddrie Library, near to Barlinnie Prison
Other areas had to make do with temporary accommodation in schools and other buildings. Riddrie Library, on Cumbernauld Road, is a handsome brick building. Mosspark and Knightswood housing estates were built at the same time. This 1937 photograph of Knightswood from the air (from the fabulous and addictive Britain From Above website) has Alderman Road sweeping up the picture from the bottom left corner. The empty rectangle of grass in the middle was due to be developed into an ambitious community centre in 1939 but the plans were put on ice because of the war.
Knightswood Housing Estate from the air, 1937
It was not until 1950 that a small part of the planned community centre was completed, facing Dykebar Road, and this is where Knightswood Library was established that year. It was 1971 before the rest of the community centre including a swimming pool and new, enlarged library building was completed. 
1950 building of Knightswood Community Centre
Current Knightswood Library building, completed 1971, with Kirkton Flats behind it
The building may not quite have the same aesthetic appeal as earlier libraries but it was/ is well used. In 1973-74 it had the third highest amount of books issued after Cardonald and Partick libraries. This was about to be overtaken in popularity by a new library serving the population in the Byres Road area. In 1907 Carnegie had put up the money to build a library in Hillhead but plans were shelved for lack of an appropriate site. When Hillhead Burgh Halls were demolished in 1970 a site became available. After decades of campaigning Hillhead Library opened in 1975 and it immediately became the most popular library in the city, in terms of books issued. It has maintained this position ever since.
Hillhead Library, Byres Road, Glasgow
Although some of the newer buildings have not stood the test of time, such as the one which Drumchapel Library is lumbered with, honorable mentions must go to some of the more recent additions to Glasgow's library portfolio such as at The Bridge in Easterhouse and the new libraries in Pollok and Milton.

Okay. We are in the home straight now. Two more and then I will shut up.

  • University of Glasgow Library

So I am cheating now by including this academic library, as it is open to University of Glasgow students and not a public library, but I spent so many days here as a student that I felt that I had to include it. Visitors can get a one day pass if they wish to browse through the 2.5 million books and journals the university library holds. It also has special collections including 10,000 books printed before 1601. The university library is first mentioned in 1475 and after the university moved to its current Gilmorehill site, the library occupied the attractive part of the main Gilbert Scott building, where the Hunterian Museum currently sits, for about 100 years.

University of Glasgow Reading Room
By the 1930s the need to expand the library and the university campus led to the construction of the GUU building and a new library. In 1939 the circular Reading Room opened to house the old Department Class libraries as they were moved out of departments. Briefly in the early 1990s it housed the short loan collection. I used to spend a lot of time in here studying, just because it was such a bright, airy building, with light all around you and the old fashioned balcony looking down into the main hall from above.
University of Glasgow Library, overshadowing the Reading Room building
As the need for more library space grew, the current 12 storey library was constructed in 1968 and the main university library collection moved over from the Gilbert Scott building. Its brutalist, concrete design has been softened a bit in recent years by its new cladding but I always liked the idea that it was meant to evoke a medieval castle keep or the town of San Gimignano as pictured by MC Escher.
University of Glasgow Library as woodblock print by MC Escher

  • Mitchell Library

As I said at the beginning, my love for the Mitchell Library goes back to my days in fifth year at school when I came here to do my homework. A few years before that my dad used to work here as a librarian for a bit just after leaving school. The current building on North Street, overlooking the M8 at Charing Cross opened in 1911. Never one to miss a photo opportunity with a library, Andrew Carnegie was on hand to lay the foundation stone with a commemorative trowel, despite not being responsible for funding it. 
Trowel used by Andrew Carnegie at ceremony to lay foundation stone of Mitchell Library
However the Mitchell Library existed before this building was constructed. In 1874 tobacco manufacturer Stephen Mitchell left £70,000 to the city of Glasgow to create a free reference library. Consisting then of 17,000 books it opened three years later in a building at the corner of Ingram Street and Albion Street. With further donations and purchases, the stock had quadrupled seven years later. An 1880s gazetteer of Glasgow describes the Mitchell Library in terms that make you desperate to go and visit it
"The admission is free, and no introduction or guarantee is required. The scene presented by the library is somewhat striking; sitting reading side by side may be seen well-dressed gentlemen, plainly-attired working men, and squalid ragged-looking urchins from the East End, all on the same level and with equal rights and privileges in the stores of knowledge. The only request that is made is for clean hands - not a high price for the value of the commodity supplied"
In 1891 it moved to larger premises on Miller Street and again was soon outgrowing its accommodation. In 1911 the current building was opened to the public. It was extended in 1953 and when fire destroyed the famous St Andrew's Halls behind it in 1962 the library was able to further extend backwards into that space, alongside the newly constructed Mitchell Theatre. 

Mitchell library, Glasgow
Sculptures above the old main entrance
One of Europe's largest public reference libraries it also houses the city archives, rare books, manuscripts, newspaper archives, legal archives, some of Robert Burns's manuscripts and photographic archives. If you can't find an interesting way to waste an afternoon in here you really aren't trying hard enough. Just go and browse through a collection of over a hundred years worth of the National Geographic magazine, which sits on the shelves along the wall of one of the reading rooms.

The sculpture above the old main entrance is meant to represent "Wisdom" sat on a throne, laurel wreath in her hair and opened scroll on her lap. Above the copper clad dome "Literature" strides forwards towards the future, another scroll in her right hand.

Close Up of Sculpture of "Literature"
from the top of the dome
It is hard to imagine what this area looked like when the library faced the other side of North Street instead of a sunken motorway. It feels a bit cut off here, amongst the noise of the traffic. However 50 years after the motorway cut a hole through many close-knit Glasgow communities there are plans being floated to cover over the motorway with a garden park, to reconnect the Mitchell Library with the city.

Returning to Glasgow along the M8 after dark, the floodlit library building is a distinctive reminder that you are home. Like all the libraries above, they can easily be taken for granted, so make sure that we use them and make sure the city continues to look after them.

Tiled Corridor in the Mitchell Library
Note:- Section on University Reading Room amended with information supplied below

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